How could the belt be in working order if the drum doesn't spin? Check to see if the belt has come off the motor. If the motor runs but your dryer doesn't spin, the belt is off. If the motor runs with the belt on but it still won't spin then you'll have a lot of black smoke because your drum is jammed. In other words, there are a number of things that could be wrong, but not very many.
SOURCE: kenmore 90 plus series: heavy duty super capacity won't agitate
this is the site to find out how to fix your washer.
you have a broken drive coupling.
it probably wont agitate or spin, but will fill and drain.
you need to remove 2 screws from the control panel, hinge it back and then remove the 2 brass colored clips that hold the cabinet to the base. once you do then pull the entire cabinet forwards to a 45 degree angle and pull it off the base.
then pull the 2 clips off pump and then 2 more on the motor. that will allow you to get to the drive coupling. you will find it to be broken.
replace it with part number 285753a for about 15-20 bucks.
SOURCE: kenmore 82372110 70 series heavy duty plus won't spin
If it drains and won't spin you have to replace the direct drive coupling.
SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Heavy Duty 70 Series Extra
If this is a Kenmore Top Loader washing machine, it sounds like you have a broken motor coupling. The washer filling and draining, but no agitation and spin are common symptoms with this problem. There may also be a rattling or whirring sound as the drive motor attempts to engage.
NOTE: If the washer drains, the drive motor is working. This drain pump on this washer is driven by the drive motor.
The motor coupling is located between the back side of the drive motor and the gearcase (transmission). The coupling is used in place of a drive belt, which is why this type of washer is referred to as a "direct drive". The following link explains how to access and replace the motor coupling:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top
The part number is included with the link and can be purchased at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. I have included an illustration of what the coupler looks like below.
If the motor coupling is intact upon inspection, the other source of no agitation and spin would be the gearcase. The gearcase on these washers is fairly simple to replace. If you narrow it down to a failed gearcase, the next link explains the steps for replacing one:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase
I could only find your model number referenced at repairclinic.com. The gearcase on their site lists for about $160 and is listed as item 423.
I could not find any exploded view diagrams of your washer, but the majority of all Kenmore and Whirlpool top loaders are designed with the same direct drive system. You can purchase a Direct-Drive Repair Manual at repairclinic.com for about $20 (Item number 1170635) if you need a guide for reference.
If you have any questions about this repair, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope I've given you enough to work with in trying to narrow down the cause of your problem.
SOURCE: kenmore washers, heavy duty 80 series, no spin
Hello, Your problem is going to be with your lid switch, this is located normally either in the control panel or about half way down on the right side under the lid. This is a safety feature to stop you opening the lid while the machine is in a high spin. Once you have located the switch trace the wires back to the wire harness in the control panel. Disconnect the lid switch from the wire harness and with an ohms meter check for condinuity on pin 1 & 3 (the 2 outside pins not the middle this is a ground) You should find you have no condinuity and should replace this switch. If you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again. Good Luck!! Mike
SOURCE: Kenmore 70 Series Heavy Duty Plus washer fills to
Check your lid switch. The symptoms of your washer stopping at the rinse cycle is a commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com
The average price is about $20 - $30. Prices differ between these sites, so shop and compare. If you still have questions, please let me know. If the suggestions I have listed do not match your washer symptoms, please post back and elaborate more on what the washer is/is not doing so I can provide you with better assistance. Please include your model number (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid) so that I may be able to assist you better. I hope this information is helpful to you.
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I checked the belt and it is in working order.
Ok, the drum is now spinning, but there is this terrible noise, so loud you have to turn it off immediately. Sounds like something huge is rattling on the inside.
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