Mitsubishi green blinking light of death

SOURCE: mitsubishi tv repair WS55859

same problem I am having....tech came out said it was probably the board containing the power source which on my tv is the right circuit board, said he would either have to buy complete board or get a refurbished one....probably about $400 bucks.

Sonny Berry

• 8617 Answers
• Posted on Jun 03, 2008

SOURCE: green blinking light problem too. on a Mitsubishi WS65869

You can go to this link they have the kits with the high temp higher volt capacitors and complete detailed instructions on how to do the repair.
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/

SOURCE: Mitsubishi blinking green light of death

I just replaced the 4 caps on my WS-65513. I had some trouble w/ getting the board back in (and out for that matter). I took my board to a local repair shop and had them do the soldering. But when I got if back I had some trouble getting the board to line up right, it would work sometime then go back to the blinking. So you might try adjusting the board to make sure that it's lined up properly in the slots. Mine looked like they were, but every time i'd put the screws in the hold it down it would move the board maybe a 1mm and it wouldn't work.

SOURCE: wd62825 blinking green light

I am also a member of the WD-62725 blinking green light club. I replaced all twelve of the caps I found with higher rated ones and the blinking light problem did not go away completely but I could get the TV synced in 5 or less cycles...for a while. I finally put the TV on an UPS and it did pretty good for about a year until, for some reason, my wife muting the TV would send it into a blue screen and then the dreaded blinking green light of death. I had collected a lot of forum notes and bought the manual (virtually useless) and remembered a post where a guy put a switch on the orange power wire going to the "board to the right of the DM board," as he described it. This was the last attempt for me so I tried it. The board's name is the FMT PWB and on his WD-62825 and my WD-62725 it is the right most board, looking from the rear. Coming off of the top of the board towards the back of the set is a 4 wire connector with one of the wires being orange. Cut that wire and splice 12" long extensions to each leg. Reassemble the TV with these two new wires hanging out the back. Solder an on off switch to these leads. I used and old PC power switch because it had large "On" and "Off" labels on it. I then screwed it to a hole in back with a 1" stand off. Its not pretty but functional. Now turn your new switch off and plug the set in. If it behaves like mine it will blink green for about a minute and then go off. Now turn the new switch to the on position and you are ready to turn on your set. I hope this helps. If it does give me some feedback at rocky_beech(at)yahoo.com. I only need mine to last two more years and my house will be paid for and then I will get the best I can afford. I hope they still have plasmas by then. Cheers

SOURCE: I have a mitsubishi ws

Age of unit: About 7 years.
Rear Projection HD set, Mitsubishi WS-55511
Nature of problem: Blinking green light of death. Upon plugging the set back in after vacation, the green LED on the front of the set would blink continuously and the set would not turn on. I ordered the blinking green light kit from tvrepairkits.com after seeing this link on a tech forum, suggesting the capacitors were bad on the DM board inside the DM module. The kit arrived within days of ordering. The online instuctions were very detailed and could be followed even by a layman such as myself. Very detailed with lots of photos. My DM module was simpler to remove than the instructions indicated. It simply slid out after about five cables were disconnected from other boards. The module itself is the silver box all the way to the left when looking into the rear of the TV (from the rear of course). There is a plastic guard that surround all the input connections (coaxial connections, home theater control inputs, etc). This is removed with 3 screws. After all the cables to this module are unplugged from other circuit boards, the module will slide out towards you. Then you take the cover off (including the clamp where all the cables are routed into the module) and you can see the DM board (it is labled as such and has 7 capacitors. None of the capacitors were bulged or otherwise defective looking as other posters have reported. Changed them all anyway. Buckled everything up and plugged the set back in. The blinking light started as it always had. It should normally go out in about a minute after plugging in to wall. I really didn't hold out a lot of hope that it would go out....and then....it went out! I pushed the power button and she fired right up! What a thrill! Including shipping, it cost me $45.90 to fix a set I paid about 3000 bucks for 7 years ago and was loathe to just throw away. I certainly wasn't going to pay nearly a thousand bucks to fix this set. It may be a little bulky, but the picture is beautiful as well as the sound system. You guys are great. A very reasonably priced gamble that worked. Watching a movie in HD while I type this, good to have my TV back after almost two weeks without it. I actually can't believe I did it!