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About a week ago i bought a P3001 amp, got it installed by a friend at bestbuy, anyways i have 2, 10" alpine type E subs, and when i hooked the amp up and started her it would blow the fuse on the amp once any power hit the subs. We went through about 7-8 fuses rewiring, bridging the subs etc, finally we tried another Sub, a 12" sony sub and it wouldn't blow any fuses but there wouldn't be any power going to the sony sub, unless we played around with the cable from the sub to the amp. So i bought a Lightning audio 600W max amp, which is grossly underpowered for my subs, anyways it all works fine right now, but i can't turn up my subs at all. I have my P3001 opened up but theres no defects that stick out right away, I'm wondering if this is fixable or if i should just buy a new amp altogether?
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What vehicle. If you have a code reader you can delete the code. Then see "if" it comes back on or how long before it comes back on? I have one on my van that comes on every couple of months. I turn it off to get it smogged every 2 years. Then just leave it on & off as it wants to be. The funny part is. My van runs better and I get much better gas mileage when it is on.
That's me though. What vehicle do you have. How long has it been on?
Make sure and check the RCA wires in the back of your radio that send audio to the amp and make sure that they're connected to the OUTPUT/SUBS RCA's and not an input rca's. Also, check your ground and make sure no speaker wires in the subs are shorted. Try one speaker at a time see if that helps.
your kicker cvr subwoofer should have a max power of 1600 watts therefore your amp is not too much for the sub because the p300-1 amplifier has a max output of 900 watts. if anything your amp would not be enough to produce max power out of your subwoofer. your sub should not produce an odor unless you have your amplifier bridged which doubles the watts pushed to your subwoofer and if that is the case your amp is pushing 1800 watts to a 1600 watt sub which could be causing it to fry or possibly blow soon. other than that if thats not the case there shouldnt be a problem.
if amp is mounted to back of the box try and move to in front of box near subs or port. the air movement of the sub will help keep the amp cooled. or you can orer some 12v cooling fans and take back plate of the amp and cool it that way. or you can buy higher quality audio, your choice
Hey i have looked over many rockford manuals,(i own a 300.1 my buddy owns a 325.1) and for there mono(.1) amps there hooked together on the inside so channel A+ and B + are cencted on the inside the amp. So you ither hook one 2ohm sub to channel A or you can hook 1 4ohm subs to channel A and 1 4ohm sub to channel B. There 2ohm stable so any lower will eventualy burn the amp out.
The best way to set up an amp is to start with everything on 0 Turn your gain all the way off, then turn the stereo up as loud as u would normally listen to it. With the stereo on, slowly turn the gain up until it sounds the way you want it. As for the Hz settings, for a sub you should have the crossover set to lpf, and the z knob adjusts what frequency your sub will play. Since you have a 10" sub, I wouldn't put it much below 125, because tens can't produce ultra low bass and it could damage the sub. Hope his helps :)
all the p series amps were discontinued for similar problems, they have a newer model out now. they have very weak boards internally and failed faster when mounted to the sub enclosure or very close to it from subsonic vibration. i would guess the amp is toasted.
check your sub woofer connection if you have multiple subs the could be wired in a parallel or with has to many ohms that my cause it to not hit right and cause the amp to get really hot and cut in and out
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