My 2001alero has been leaking oil. I was driving down the road and it didn't have any power. Ipushed the gas pedal to the floor and the car didn't Rev up at all and it acted like it wanted to shut off

clutch pedals are suposed to go all the way to the floor , you sure you dont mean brake pedal (cus thats bad ! ) clutches should travel all the way to floor and release the "grab" of the engine about 2/3 down , this way they are more smoothly allowing shifting thru the gears and not jerking as you shift thru the gears , if clutch pedal does not start to "grab" the engines power by 2/3 off the floor and fully "grab"its power all the way up(slipping) ,and you have a hydraulic clutch (96's do) then the clutch disk may require replacement or there is a oil leak in the clutch/master/slave cylinder , look for small oil leaks from under car in area of foot pedals
clutches should be replaced as an assembly that includes , disk ,pressure plate, throwout bearing , with engine side clutch plate magnafluxed for heat cracks and any hydraulic oil leaks replaced or repaired

Have a look for a hole in the block where the oil is coming from. If you have one you have blown a motor.

From what you say Daniel, your kickdown cable need's to be adjusted, here's how :

Down at the pressure lever on the front of the trans, loosen off the cable retaining nuts so there is a little slack in the cable.
then start taking the slack out of the cable a little bit at a time;
Rest a long screwdriver on the end of the pressure lever, holding the screwdriver with one hand start opening the throttle with your other hand.

Just at the point the idle RPM barely rises, the pressure lever should just barely move.

Driving test; Going along a level road at 25 mph light throttle, floor the gas pedal.
The trans should downshift to first gear.

repeat the same drive at 28 mph, floor the gas pedal, the trans only downshifts to second gear.

Don't start replacing parts until you know for sure what has failed. I would say that the PCM is not the problem here. As far as the gas pedal is concerned, it sounds like you may have a broken linkage at the pedal, these trucks do not have a cable but only a rheostat that the computer reads.
The tachometer and speedometer problem could be a bad cluster.
You need to see a good mechanic to get a diagnosis.

Dead Battery

now is the car 2017 plated or 2011 plated
as there is a vast difference between new and second hand new to you
Next question is it automatic transmission or CV transmission
With automatic as you increase rpm the car will accelerate and you will feel ratio changes up to the point where road speed = engine rpm for that throttle setting
With a CV transmission ( constant velocity transmission ) there is a torque converter but that is where the automatic action ends
In the transmission there are 2 pulleys with a big belt that can vary the ratios by pulling the flanges together on one and expanding on the other
This gives an infinite number of ratios and is designed to keep the best ratio selection for the torque band of the engine
SO how does it affect your driving
If you floor the pedal on take off, the engine will red line and stay there until road speed builds up
OR you ease back on the pedal and the pulleys start to change the ratios to suit the power band
How to drive it
when you want to take of push the pedal down to around 2500 rpm the car will take of normally
as the road speed increases , ease off the pedal and it will keep altering ratios until the correct road speed is reached for the rpm on the dial
The only catch that you will have to get used to is when going to pass at speed , you tend to floor the pedal to get past quickly but it will not down change ratios until you ease of the pedal and then the car will speed up to the rpm that you are holding it at
IT is different in driving and you will have to learn to drive to rpm not road speed and then it will behave normally ( set the rpm by the pedal and the transmission will catch up and to make it catch up , ease of the pedal in stages , just like a conventional automatic

Brake pedal goes to the floor? When does it happen. That is the most important piece of information. Most brake systems are power assisted via vacuum from the engine. Your brake booster is what makes the "power assist" work. There are some specific times when you will feel your brake pedal "fade" to the floor and it is normal due to the cycle of the brake components operation.If your brake pedal goes to the floor every time you step on it, stop driving and get to a repair facility! If the pedal is working when driving and the vehicle seems to be working as it always has, then chances are there is no concern. To be on the safe side, have it checked the next time you are in for any other type of service.There is a sensor inside most brake reservoirs that activates the indicator light in your instrument cluster when the level is lower than it should be. As your brake pads wear down, the system requires more fluid so the level at the reservoir drops setting the light. Same thing if there is a leak. The fluid level drops and the light goes on. This brake fluid leak would most likely be combined with a spongy pedal or a pedal fade every time you step on the brakes. A leak would also almost always have a wet area around the leak. Sometimes the leak can be internal to a part of the car you cannot see, so don't count on it.One easy way to check most brake boosters and the brake system for leaks is to turn the vehicle off and pump the brake pedal. Every time you depress the pedal you should feel the pedal "height" come up and the pedal get harder. After a few firm pumps of the pedal, hold it down. Leave pressure on the pedal for 20 seconds or so. Does the pedal move slowly (or quickly) to the floor? If so then there is a leak somewhere in the system. Keeping pressure on the brake pedal, start the vehicle. Does the pedal no drop? It should. That is the power assisted vacuum kicking in as the engine starts to run.The bottom line is that we are talking about your brakes. Your life, your passengers lives and the lives of others on the road around you depends on that system working properly. If you have any doubts, or feel uncomfortable, take it in to have it looked at. Know specifically what it is doing so that you can have your repair facility look at what you are feeling and tell you if

The clutch might be a hydraulic system. When it's leaking oil the pedal sticks to the floor and has to be pulled back manually. Because it's designed to be fail safe, it still works but only for some time till all the oil has leaked out.

The burning smell might be clutch oil dripping on the exhaust - meaning the seal on the clutch servo is leaking oil.

There are repairkits for clutch servo's - usually it's suggested to replace the cylinder seal on the clutch pedal also.

First I would check fuel pressure.

Sounds like the alternator is going bad and killing the battery.