The first thing to check is the battery: is it fully charged, are the contacts in good condidtion and do they make good contact with the contacts on the switch.
Next thing to check is the brushes. Remove the rear cover and check the brushes and springs that hold them down on the armature. If the brushes are worn to where they dont' make good contact or the springs are not holding them down with enough pressure they won't make good contact and sometimes a good hit will make them touch enough to work again. The brush part number is CB-440, if the springs are bad you have to replave the whold brush holder, part number 638614-1.
SOURCE: makita 1420 - 14.4v 1.3Ah cordless drill
try toolpartsdirect.com & go to makita & type in model #
SOURCE: wiring diagram for makita 6510 LVR drill
I can't find the wiring schematic online but if you can bear with me I will make some phone calls thurs. and get one faxed to me. It has been so long since I had one apart that I can't remember.
SOURCE: Kawasaki 19.2 cordless drill
Hi Tim, Sounds like you got it figured out! The only question I see is if there is a quick fix, and it looks like you answered your own question. You can certainly pursue requesting that it be fixed as a manufacturing defect/ faulty part, or even a safety hazard as that is your right. While I can not suggest you take that route, the old metaphor of the sparking trigger that melted in my hand always seemed to get a lot of attention. Good Luck to you, hope this Fixsya!
SOURCE: How do i get the chuck off a makita cordless drill
HI,
Most hand-held drills have chucks that screw onto the shaft with a right-hand thread. Reversible drills lock the chuck in place with a left-hand threaded screw inside the chuck. To remove this screw, open the jaws of the chuck all the way and use a screwdriver to back out the screw (turning it clockwise, of course, to loosen it).
The easiest way to get the chuck off, once the screw is out, is to chuck the short end of a large Allen wrench into the drill, run the drill backwards at low speed, and let the long end of the Allen wrench bang into a concrete floor or a 2x4 or something until you hear a pop and the chuck just screws off. The impacts seem to loosen stuck threads very well.
The problem with my drill was that my clutch was damaged and I couldn't get enough of an impact to loosen the threads. I had to get to the clutch before I could get to the chuck.
HOPE THIS HELPS!
SOURCE: Kawasaki 19.2 cordless drill
Re: Burned trigger switch: call the number on the drill (800.590.3723) and tell them what happened. They will offer to send you a new switch or have you send the drill in for replacement of the switch--although the person I talked with said they would probably just replace the whole drill.
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i bought a set of new brushes for it. now when i use it th brake doesnt come on all the time. just every now and then
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