Thanks! Thanks so much for the 42LG70 calibration settings - by far the best I have run across. A couple questions - how should I adjust the settings if the room is a little brighter? Baclkight, brightness or contrast? Also, would you have settings for an SD source that the picture is not as sharp and clear as HD? Thanks - your settings were great! Regards, Dan

Two things to consider which will answer this question.

1. The voltage source must be if set from USA 110-120 volts out of the wall outlet (I think it will be but check) and if not you will need a converter that converts that voltage to the USA voltage.

2. Since the transmission format in USA is NTSC and it is PAL there you will need a set top box that converts PAL to NTSC.
( Google PAL to NTSC converter to see those.)

Thats it.

The number of hours, coupled with the TV viewing conditions, is a more accurate way of interpreting the proper bulb life expectations.

For example; a TV like yours that is set to watch the winter Olympics for two hours per day will not last as long as one that is set to watch something like Ghost Hunters for two hours per day. The reason is the output demand on the bulb...brighter pictures will burn it out faster.

The best way to get the most life out of any bulb, or any TV as a whole, is to properly calibrate your TV. Getting the correct picture levels does more for the TV than simply improve the picture quality.

I recommend a calibration tool you can find on DVD called Avia. Or you could simply use some of the calibration images provided with some THX certified movies. These are by far not the best available choices, but are the simplest and much better than the ***** eye. The discs are intended for calibrating the output of video from dvd playback, but you still could use the same calibration settings for all of your outputs if you wish.

Hi, yes I believe that will work, however you may need to re-adjust several time to get it perfect, my wife ( who's owned a couple industrial machines agrees ) use some scrap material to make adjustments and if possible ( with machine unplugged of course ) turn by hand to make sure it is not too far and could jam. I hope this was useful, please write back to let me know-even if not so we may try to help some more. Thanks for asking FixYa, and good luck-Prodzilla

Your SpeedyGreen 2000 Rotary Spreader spreader was calibrated at the factory. However, a spreader's calibration may change or slip during periods of frequent or heavy use.
You may check the calibration by using the following directions. First, adjust your micrometer setting to 2. Squeeze the trigger against the handle. The calibration line is a small, raised line embossed on the top of the spreader's shut-off plate. With the micrometer set at 2 and the trigger squeezed against the handle, the calibration line should be aligned with the back edge of the hopper opening.
To adjust the alignment, use a small wrench to turn the black calibration screw at the lower end of the control wire leading from the micrometer rate setting barrel. Adjust the screw until the calibration line and back edge of the hopper meet. If you have any difficulty checking the calibration, contact us and we will be happy to help walk you through the adjustment.
When you are not pulling on the trigger handle, the cable should be loose. When you pull on the handle, the cable becomes taut and the shutoff plate slides open.
If you have any additional questions feel free to contact Scotts directly @ 1-800-543-8873

Use the Menu system to calibrate, follow the instructions and it should calibrate with New settings. Calibration by setting it to calibrate on head close or bootup only loads factory settings.

One of two situations exists:
1. If the printing stops with clear stopping edge, then the PRINT WIDTH setting has been changed from the default full width setting of 104mm.
Best way to check this is to take your tallest and widest label and print out a configuration label. This is done by turning off the priner, pressing the CANCEL key and holding while turning on the printer. Release the button when the calibrate led turns off. A config label will print and you can check the setting for PRINT WIDTH.

2. If the printing stops by fading away to the right side, then that is caused by a pressure imbalance across the printhead. There is more pressure on the left side than the right side. There are two toggles the press down on the printhead and the pressure can be adjusted on each by turning the knob on top. Readjust the right side until printing returns across the label.

Hope that helps !

Moving water rarely freezes. Is your spa outside?

I don't know how far North your are. If you are concerned, you could set your heat at the lowest setting AND run the pump. Frankly, it would have to be below zero and stay there for a couple days for me to be concerned about the water in a hot tub with the pump running, even with the heat off.

On the other hand, you definitely don't want the thing to freeze. If you are way up north and it will be below zero for several days, maybe you should dump the water.

Thanks for your question at FixYa.com

Just answered this question for someone else so I thought I would just copy and paste my response.
Now sure if you are still looking for a solution or not but just came across your problem. The lower right-hand button, the one used to turn the alarm off and on, can actually be pulled out to set the alarm. Pull out the knob, adjust the alarm time, push back in and push one more time to actually set the alarm. Hope this helps.

If you did not save the damage that you did, or do any damage from over-adjustment, you can make a re-set to before the adjustments were made by simply unplugging the set from the AC mains for about 10 to 20 seconds. If the improper parameters were saved, or damage was done from over adjustment, then this procedure will not work for you.


Read on for more details:

There is no default actual default. Each set is individualy set up for its optimum performance. At the factory, during the manufacturing process they set the EPROM firmware parameters to a so-called reference value before they start the calibration. This is done during production on the burner that programs the EPROM.

If the paramters are too far off to have the set working, you will have to take the set for service at a factory service rep. The factory service shop will most likely have to change the complete circuit board that constains the uPC EPROM with a new one that has the reference factory set-up. They will then have to go through the complete set-up with calibration procedures using the factory recomended calibration standards instrumentation to match for best performance. To manualy do a full calibration on the test bench it can be about 2 hours of work.

Because the factory service setup was not meant for consumer use, it is possible to over adjust parameters to the point where you can lock the set out of operation, or actualy do damage by over-adjustment.

Jerry G.

It's on page 32 of the manual for Thermador's built in convection ovens. 1. turn off the oven 2.touch and hold the start pad and then touch the bake pad 3. 0 (zero) appears in the temp digits. release all pads 4. touch bake and 0 changes in increments. max adjustment is 35 degrees F. 5. to complete change touch start for lower oven on double ovens do this: touch the roast pad instead of the bake pad continue with steps 3-5.