Question about Hoover Washing Machines
It could be a problem with the balance of the machine. Make sure it's level on the floor. Could also be a problem with the suspension that supports the drum. Usually there are springs at the bottom of the drum and a lump of concrete at the top to keep the machine stable. They could be loose or broken. Also, when you open the door just have a look at the drum, see if you can lift it around the entrance, if it feels easy to move up and down without moving the rest of the machine then the drum bearings could be broken / loose.You really need an engineer to take a look, unless you know someone like a friend who could look for you.
Posted on Feb 20, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Loud bang during spin
Remove the top of the machine and check if the centralising spring/s is/are still attatched. Next remove back cover or tilt machine back and inspected the shock absorbers. One of the shockies could be broken or just pulled out of the guide. If springs and shockies are ok open the door and try to move the inner drum up, down and sideways. If it is very loose, then the centre bearing is worn.
Posted on Nov 03, 2007
the tub is mounted on shocks if you look in side the tub near where the tub seem is take the screws out of the vane and slide it foward and take it out look in the hole for foreign objects in between the inner and outer tub then follow this procedure to check the drain pump
if you have a shop vac this is time to vacuum the water of the tub and all the way down the drain hole for the next stage usally i tell customers to remove the drain hose from the stand pipe and vacuum the water out of the washer from the drain hose but because of the pillow this might not work in your case. Now remove the two screws on the front lower panel and pull the panel
in side you will see the drain pump if you did not have a shop vac go to the auto parts store and buy a pair of radiator hose clamps and clamp the hose line as close to the washer as possible.(but put down some towels as water always stays there) then pull the tub to pump hose by depressing the squeeze clamp(now while your at the auto parts id get a screw clamp to replace the spring clamp it makes putting the hose back on a lot easier)pull the hose off.Then pull the pump to drain hose off .Remove the two 5/16 in screws securing the pump to the washer base.Unplug the connector and remove the pump inspect the pump for foreign objects,broken or stripped impeller blades . if the impeller are stripped you will have to replace the pump then form the front of the washer take a piece of water hose with one end cut off and run it down the pump to drain end of the drain and reassemble the unit
Posted on Jan 27, 2008
SOURCE: thumping and banging
make sure all shipping pins are out the tub should move all around from side to side if it level still bangs its eather the balance ring top basket are there 3 slides on a plate above the motor just put some silacone oil on tham move around
Posted on Feb 25, 2008
SOURCE: loud noise at end of spin cycle
The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
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