The speakers were damaged by rates

Hi, Yes it can be fixed.

It may not need fixing, It may have just worked loose. If it is faulty then any general purpose speaker that will fit will be OK. Consider replacing both if the replacement is radically different.

Speakers can be as cheap as a few pounds.

Paying someone to do the repair is something else. It will take longer to take the keyboard apart than affect the repair.

Consider buying a replacement from eBay, second hand, and get a competent amateur to repair yours!!

Failing that, use the headphone out (which cuts the internal speakers) into a hi fi or external instrument amp.

Good luck, Chris the Fader.

The Speakers can be replaced with any brand. The thing you need to know is the OHM rating for the speaker. OHM is also called impedance. Unless the sticker has fallen off the back of the speaker that information will be on that sticker. OHM rating MUST match the old speaker. For instance 4 OHM, 8 OHM, 16 OHM are common ratings. All different ratings but VERY important to get this correct otherwise you could damage the electronics of your instrument.

Sorry, those speakers are rated at 250 Watts RMS continuous, NOT 600. The speakers are nominally 8 ohms. The PMP6000 will deliver about 250 watts RMS to an 8 ohm load so the speakers should be able to take this as long as you had one per side and NOT using bridged mode of the PMP6000. It is possible that you fried the amp, although the PMP amps have a speaker protection network that shorts the output should the amp hard over. It is strange that you could draw smoke with the setup. Hopefully you were not generating very low frequencies that were below what the speaker could handle OR that you did not crank up the bass with the EQ such that frequencies below the speakers rating were sent at high levels. Your speakers are rated for a low end at 55 HZ. You should have the eq cut the gain below that. The leftmost EQ (50 Hz) should NOT be higher than center... if you boost that one, you likely will be buying new speakers. If you need power below that, then you need to be using subwoofers. Hopefully you haven't damaged the PMP6000... I assume that was the amp you were using, although you haven't stated that. At this point, unless the stuff is under warranty, you nee to open the speakers and see what has blown... could be the woofers or the crossover network...Use an ohmmeter to check the woofer DC resistance... should be between 7 and 9 ohms. If it is open circuit, the voice coil is blown.

Almost any amplifier will work so there is no "best"... Just make sure the amp RMS rating is a bit below the RMS rating of the speaker for safety of the speaker. A QSC GX5 would be a candidate. You would use one side of it for each speaker if you have two, or use only one side for a single speaker. A lot of pro's seem to use these amps. USE BALANCED interconnections either XLR or TRS cables AND for sure power the amp and the mixer from the same receptacle... it often means running an extension cord like the pro's do to avoid ground bounce noise AND damage to the equipment.

These are rated peak 600 Watts... your amp should NOT be bigger than 200 Watts RMS per speaker cabinet driving these to prevent burning out the speakers. The pop MAY have driven the speakers to full excursion and temporarily shorted the speaker voice coil. Test the DC resistance of the speaker... if you find it is under about 3.7 ohms you have damaged the speakers and continued use may damage your amplifier.. Often people will unplug a guitar cable causing a loud pop in the PA system and that CAN damage the speakers if the amp is too big.

Hi there.You may have a blown fuse.Unplug the amp then undo the screws that hold it all together.Remove the wires off the speaker and put an AA battery across the speaker connections(of the speaker).You will hear a clicking sound if the speaker is ok.If not then the speaker is blown.This could also damage the circuitry.Check the fuse(s) and replace with exactly the same rating.Assemble and test if still no go then the circuitry is faulty.You could then take it to a repair shop and ask for a quote to repair it.
It might be cheaper to buy a new unit.

does the cab have a horn like the one in the photo if it does then you must think again.

you must try to get a replacement crossover or get a speaker geek to fix it for you its not so hard you can get the burnt out components fro radio shack / maplin so on. most of the blown components will show damage or smell like they are burnt because thats what they are.

the cross over plays a very important job in the fact that it filters of the top frequencies so you only get subs on the bottom 12's bass / mid on the top 12's and hi frequencies on the horn.

you will loose all the quality if you go direct and could easily blow things up especially the horn.

this speaker cab looks like a Kenny i had and when working then they are fantastic. i blow one of the sub 12's and the cross over survived so unplug the speakers and test them 1 by one with a little power from an amp and a small amp that does not matter if it gets damaged

The crossover in these is very simple and if it is burned, likely your speakers, maybe both, the woofer and tweeter have been damaged and need to be replaced. Test the speakers before changing the crossover. You MAY NOT notice the damage until you start driving the speakers again. The voice coil of the woofer is a common thing to fry, and while it may not open up, often it becomes unbonded to the coil form and rubs the magnet pole pieces. The tweeter/horn often wipes out the diaphram or blows the element open. Some of these are piezo horns and they can sometimes survive. These are rated at 100 Watts and if your amp can deliver over 50 watts you have to be careful to not put too much power into these. I have several of the Kustom 10 inch ones and several of the 15 inch ones... Also I have two 15 double stacks and they all seem to use the same crossover. Believe me, the crossover is far from what I would call "special" like the advertisements say. As an electrical engineer I was very disappointed. Anyway, test your speakers as they may be the worst of the problem.

The speakers are rated 250 Watts. Driving with 600 Watt amps requires one to be careful of how much the volume is turned up to avoid damage. You MAY have damaged more than just the compression drivers on the horns but the voice coils on the 15 inch speakers as well. Further use could also damage the amplifiers. You did not mention what brand amps and it is possible they have a problem.

You best replace the units with ones rated for the power of the amps as restoring them on short notice for a gig is not practical.

Passive loudspeakers are connected to the two "Speakon" connectors on the back of the unit. BUY GOOD cables for your speakers!!!! Whatever you do don't have a speaker line come loose while driving audio out !!! You will arc- out the rear-most power amp... I know, I repaired two of these now with the problem.

Connect the recording device to either the "tape OUT" RCA jacks or either of the pairs of MAIN out TRS jacks.

Set the slide switch for the MAIN L/MAIN R (upper position) leave this in this position unless you understand what the other positions are for to avoid damage. You will NOT need the other positions.

Further: Power ALL interconnect devices from the SAME receptacle source to avoid ground loops and possible damage.

YOUR passive speakers should be rated at least 300 Watts RMS continuos power handling or 600 Watts peaks.

Drive consumer stereo speakers with this and you will smoke the speakers and MAYBE blow the amp. This is a powerful amplifier and if you don't have at least 15 inch speakers you MUST really hold down the volume lest you blow the speakers.

Above all read the manual... yes, it is a bit hard to understand...

If you have a problem you can contact me by email for a bit of help. I have wo of these I have been using at venues now.