The drain pump pulses from 240vac down to 16-24vac when in normal wash mode. I have the repair manual and put it into diagnostic mode and turned the drain pump on via the regular wash button on the control panel and the pump will turn on (240vac)for short period of time and then sit there pulsing forward as if to pump normally with a 16-24vac.I checked the pump for blockage which was clear and the resistance of the pump reads 38ohm which is 2 ohm out of the specified reading of 33ohm +-3ohm PS:No error code comes up whatsoever I am pretty sure it is the board but what component it is I dont know perhaps one of the FETS. Any ideas? thanks in advance
SOURCE: fisher and paykel gw509 not draining, pump is clear
Check your exit hose spigot, it may be clogged. This is if your filter is all clean. There should be air for passage in the standpipe behind. Your hose should not fit airtight into the standpipe and neither too deep into it. Snaking out your standpipe would be good too.
Rate me pl.....if helped.
SOURCE: anussi ZWD 1271W stops at beginning of program
Hi,
Did you fix this problem? We have the same with Zanussi ZWD 1472 W. It takes some water and stops after 2 minutes. We need to shut machine down and fill water manually. It works fine then.
SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel GWL 11
Hi just read your posting.Try this,Put a couple of books under each foot of the machine high enough so you can look under the machine at the pump.Now select a spin mode and push the start button.Does the pump turn on its own?Where is your machine draining the water to,Is it into the laundry sink or some place else.Please reply with this additional information and this will help me in diagnosing this fault for you.Looking forward to your reply.
SOURCE: The problem is that the
Hi.
E47 effectively means that the control module detects that the door switch is open, unless there are additional problem, this is rarely caused by electronic control module, and commonly caused by wiring to door lock or door lock itself.
The electronic control module is difficult to diagnose and expensive. Before replacing it it is better to perform an additional test checking that there is continuity between two contacts from lock switch wires going to control board when the door lock switch is closed, or checking that each wire has continuity from control board to door lock switch. An old style test was also performing a cycle with door lock switch contacts jumped.
If E47 is gone, check also the pressure switch. The pressure sensor is checked by control module before advancing to spin. E47 however indicates that the problem is door lock, wiring or electronic control. In your case either door latch or wiring.
Regards.
Ginko.
It is so common that the drain leaks in many ways and
is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is
important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the
identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has
leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the
underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here.
In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the
house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside.
Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged or the drain hose clamps can be loose
on the grip which can all cause the leak to occur. Removing and cleaning the
drain pump/valve, tightening of the hose is also very important. Also water can
leak if there are gaps on the front door gaskets and must be checked but this
will happen only during the cycle and not on the drain cycle end.
Tips for leak: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1461/do-you-have-a-leaky-washing-machine.html
Replacing Door seal: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1464/how-to-replace-the-door-seal-on-a-washing-mac.html
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I turned the washing machine off at the wall for sometime. Turned it back on and entered the diagnostic mode and turned on the pump and it worked.I now have approx 18vac between the white (pump B) and brown (pump A) plug that goes into the main board.I then proceeded to measure the voltage between the pumpA and pumpB links off the main board and got 200vac.
I know that this will still cause problem in the future since this problem surfaces on and off
I did notice that c122 capacitor (270uf 250vac) got pretty warm so I have decided in the vain hope that this might be the cause will change it along with capacitor c121 with the same value.Just waiting for them to arrive in the post.
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