Question about Hoover Nextra HNWL 3126 Front Load Washer / Dryer
Which way does the drum come out? from above or below? to change the bearing, It is the bearing as the noise was unbearable on spin, and now the doors open (and the smoke cleared!) the drum lifts up and down and viewed from the rear the pulley moves a good couple of mm. Which bits should I have to remove to change the bearing?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Drum Bearing Replacement
With a plastic tub (outer drum as you describe it) removal of the old bearings can deform or bruise out the plastic housing a little - you will need to check that the new bearings will be really good fit. You may need to use a retaining compound if not, to ensure that the outer journals of the bearings don't creeping round in the plastic housing and wear it looser.
I did my Hoover Electron 800 bearings (metal tub). As i recall it was fairly straightforward - needed a gasket for the tub backplate on that.
Unbolted tub backplate from tub and withdrew it through rear of chassis along with drum/drum-shaft/bearings assembly, removed pulley, tapped shaft through bearings with softfaced mallet (or hammer & wood), drifted bearings out gently, working evenly around circumference.
For plastic tub some kind of suitable extractor may reduce chances of deforming bearing housing during bearing removal, compared to drifting them out. If it'd serve to ease the new ones in too then that'd be even better.
Don't forget to check/clean the water level pressure sensor path while you're at it - stave off any problems in that area for a while while you have the machine apart. ;o)
Posted on Jan 04, 2008
I have similar problem with same model unit, found brushes on motor worn to point copper contact is hitting and scoreing commutator. Easy checked, ensure power completely disconnected, lie machine on side and gently rotate drum looking in side the motor. The commutator is what looks like a circular block of copper segments which will rotate with the drum and should be evenly worn and coated with carbon from the brushes. If you see a clean copper area, usually in the center, then the brushes are worn down below workable levels. Suggest replacing should resolve problem.
Posted on Jun 08, 2008
hi there my best advice is phone gias in rochdale go to gias website for number when you ring tell them you repair washing machine so you get a trade price
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
Hi .Go to the following site for the information you require.
Click on AFTER SALES SERVICE in the nenu
Then click on INSTRUCTION MANUALS in the menu
Then click on LAUNDRY
Then click on WASHER DRYERS
Then enter your model number in the box .
You should then be able to download the instructions for your model .
Posted on Dec 23, 2010
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I'm sorry to say that tis
is potentially very bad news. the problem you describe is almost certainly
because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".
To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.
The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. If the bearings are bad enough then symptoms will typically include:
A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and or hitting the outer drum)
You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins
The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open
A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is the result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear
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