Outer tub seal

you better get at this soon,the lip-seal is gone from the outer tub and now water has penetrated the bearings behind this lip-seal,the longer you wait the harder it will be to remove these bearings and if its a plastic outer tub you can destroy this tub when removing the old bearings,the inner tub needs to be removed,the rear access needs to be open the motor pulley removed,the c-clip that secures the outer bearing needs removing then the inner tub can come out the front to access these bearings for replacement

Hi, what you are experiencing is problem with the Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.

You can get the parts by contacting appliance help on 1-800-470-7119

""is this still the manufacturers issue to resolve""

Nope we are on our own.

I feel you have a slight tub seal leak causing the Clutch One-Way Roller clutches bearing to become contaminated…...again.

I would drop the Clutch Pulley out inspect and clean and look at replacing the tub seal if you feel it’s worth your while.

If the Outer Tub bearings are not causing increased rotational resistance I would change out the Tub Seal, Tranny O-Ring. This is a job but can be done by most folks that replaced the clutch. It’s comes down to can you tolerate the down time?

A couple of post if you decide to go forward with a Tub Seal replacement…… The post discuss Outer Tub Bearing replacement. You would just remove the Spinner Assembly and replace the Tub Seal and Tranny O-ring. This is a major tear down but again can be done by most DIY’ers that take on Clutch Maintenance or replacement.
Outer Bearing Tub Replacement 1.

You would need the Tub seal see Sears Parts Direct. I would also pick up the Tranny O-ring seal (series 10) and this tool


It’s cheaper to buy the Spinner Nut Locking tool and Spinner wrench separately I don’t know why.
If you decide to go forward I will offer some additional info/support……..Rich

This could be the start of Outer Tub Bearing issue.


Raise the lid of your washer and rotate the wash basket CCW as fast as you can. Does is spin down slowly to a gentle stop after several revolutions with no bearing noise?

The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.

I would by removing the Clutch Pulley and check for One-Way Roller clutches bearing wash water contamination. That will give you a feel for the integrity of the Tub Seal. See my Clutch Fix post for support.

If this is Outer Tub Bearing noise you will have to replace them along with the Tub Seal and Tranny O-ring. The Series 16 machine (I have that one also doesn’t use the upper Clutch bearing ring. That upper One-Way Roller clutches bearing is integrated into one of the Outer Tub bearings.

See this post. This guy bothered me for his statement that I left him hanging. I’m a DIY’er not a appliance tech and most AT’s won’t touch this with a 10 foot poll due to lack of knowledge. I did replace the Outer Tub bearings on a ebay win Series 10 machine. See this post for the details of that.

Don’t get too excited by any of this. 1st determine if the squeaky noise is Outer Tub bearing noise I haven’t had them fail yet but I would suspect you will hear metal against metal grinding of the ball bearings in the bearing race. There will be down time for the tear down and work. You need to determine if this is worth it for your situation. No more than a $85 to replace Outer Tub bearings tub seal tranny o-ring and buy Maytag Spinner Nut removal tool for reassembly and you extend the service life of your $1K machine.
If you want to DIY further let me know……Rich

I feel you have a Tub Seal leak.

Did you replace the Clutch Pulley or a repair service?

You are talking about the Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutch bearing in the white bearring plate correct? The First two digits of your serial number are 12 thru 17. What are the first two digits of your serial number?

To replace the Tub Seal you need to remove the spinner assembly. That means you have to remove the outer tub. A bigger job but several on this forum have completed it including myself two weeks ago on a Series 10 FAV6800A.

I will point you to a link most recently where a form member replaced Outer tub bearings on his Series 15. If your wash basket spins up to 850 rpm with no Outer Tub bearing noise I would just do a tub seal replacement this round.


You would need the Tub seal see Sears Parts Direct. I would also pick up the Tranny O-ring seal (series 10) .

Some links on Outer Tub Bearing replacement.

http://www.fixya.com/support/t3973659-fav6800aw_sn_15_top_loader_r_nunit


http://www.fixya.com/support/t4028403-just_replaced_new_clutch_fav9800aww

If you replace the tub seal make sure you remove this sleeve that will more than likely stay on the Spinner Support when you remove. See Page 49 of the Service Manual. Here is a real world pic of the sleeve on the Spinner Assembly.



I did break off a Spinner Bolt even after heavy soaking in Liquid Wrench be careful;



There should be six there oops!


Good luck and post back if I can help.....Rich

The part number for the mounting stem and seal kit is 6-2095720 it cost about 85 bucks retail. You will also need to buy a special maytag spanner wrench to remove the inner tub. Its NOT an easy job the inner and outer tubs and hoses all need to be removed. The seal kit comes with no instructions. If you had a service company do the job it would be probably around 250 maybe more. We charge 104.95 labor for the job. Good luck _MJ_

I believe you may have a Tub Seal Leak you will need to remove the Outer Tub to start of the repair process for a Tub Seal replacement. I would start by removing the clutch I feel the water will coming down the Spinner Assembly support and or the agitator shaft driving the transmission.
See this post Clutch Fix for removing the clutch and inspecting and re-lube of the One-Way Roller clutches bearing. You will find links to the Service Manual at that post.
Read this post1 and this post2 for removing the Outer Tub Bearings and seals and special tool to remove Spinner Assembly. No doubt this is a big job but other DIY’ers have done if you can tolerate the down time.
I feel repair cost will trigger a washer replacement if a DIY fix is not an option for you.
I’m an owner not a repair person but have some hands on with the FAV6800A and have helped owners/repair folks out with FAV9800A LCD version of this machine…..Rich

It sounds like you may have to replace the Outer Tub to replace the Outer Tub bearing .....ain't that just peachy.....good job Maytag design team.

If you are the original owner I would press Maytag hard to replace the Outer Tub based on the Outer tub Bearing failure. Their warranty states third thru tenth year Drive Motor, Outer Tub and Sealed Transmission. I’m sure you will need to have a certified Maytag repair service tech certify the failure and fix action required. Why should an Outer Tub bearing replacement cost you $430. Another poor design issue of this machine.

If you can't loosen the nut, you can break it with a hammer and a metal chisel. Tub nut is cheap. Grease on clothes = new transmission time.
By the way, after you remove the inner tub,.... you have to take the entire outer tub assembly out of the washer, flip it upside down, remove the yoke that holds the motor onto the outer tub, and pull the transmission out through the bottom of the outer tub.

If it does not spin see the following suggestions from Repairclinic:

" It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

On leaks:

It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

• Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.



• The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.



• Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

• Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.



• Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.



• Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.



• Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.