Floor is not level side-to-side; lower on left side of fridge. Raising left front roller and/or lowering right front roller just destabilizes fridge. Right front roller needs to be at high enough to maintain recommended tilt rearward. Ideally I'd like to reduce height at right rear and increase height at left front. Have found no mention of adjusting height at rear.
SOURCE: fridge is freezing on the
Freezer drain is plugged. Defrost the freezer and clear the drain line inside the freezer and in back where it exits the cabinet.
SOURCE: brand new electrolux front load washer w/ factory
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Although you say it's level I would recommend you try my method to make absolutely certain!
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0)
Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then-
very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up!
If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
SOURCE: I have a Electrolux GLHS38EGSB0
. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.
Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm
Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.
Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
If it's iced up really heavy you have an auto defrost problem. Melt the ice with a hairdryer and check the defrost system.
DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
SOURCE: Hey everyone, first time on forums. I have a
Change the belt on the unit, and adjust the height adjustment until the brushes are just touching the carpet. I know you mentioned the belt looks good, but when you get the new EXT-U belt, you will notice a size difference. Good luck!
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