I have a GCVH6260 and it just won't spin and drain. The clothes are left soaking half way through the wash cycle. I cleaned the pump filter which was clogged with socks, coins etc. I retired the spin and drain cycle and the drum will not spin, all I hear is a slight humming noise. How can I fix this.
Is the pump motor spinning?
SOURCE: GE washing macine stops during the wash cycle
This is exactly what my machine was doing, as well. I fixed it by cleaning out the filter in front of the water pump.
Searching here, I found that you can remove the lower front panel (three screws along the bottom edge is all it takes) to get to the filter. With the panel removed, you'll see a round white plastic cover (about 3-4 inches diameter) that screws out. Get a bucket under the cover to catch the water that's in it (could be 2 quarts or more) and unscrew the cover.
The cover pulls out, revealing that is actually a screw-in plastic strainer. I found tons of coins, broken pens, paper clips, etc. in mine when I did this. A lot will be deep inside the black rubber hose that connects this filter housing to the washer drum. You can rake the stuff out with a bent wire clothes hanger. Shaking the black hose will help hurry the junk along and out of your machine. Screw the cover back on after the clean out and your machine should go back to normal.
Thinking about it, front loaders will have lots of small items flushed into the pump compared to top loaders. Coins you alway found in the bottom of the drum in a top loader, they all wind up in the filter of a front loader. And once it slow the drainage to a crawl the machine will shut down multiple times when it can't drain the water out completely, and it will never step up to it's max spin speed with all that water still in the drum.
SOURCE: Drum Does Not Spin
We had the same problem on a 7-yr. old WFK02401 washer that had been used daily for 7 years. Bosch's approved repair people quoted us $350 for installing a new motor. In fact, all it needed - knock wood - was new motor brushes, for which I paid all of $45, including shipping (or cheaper, if I'd ordered directly from Bosch.) To replace these requires a half-inch wrench and a bit of confidence and common sense. I won't go into all the details, here, except to say that you need to remove just two bolts, unattach the bundle of wires strapped to the motor housing, take out the motor, replace the brushes, and put back the motor. There may be a problem with one of the control modules in the machine - electronics that oversee the washing cycle and turn the motor and other items on and off during same - in which case you may want to find a repair person. I just learned that there is a circuit diagram pasted under the machine's top cover; it includes some resistance values (ohms) that can help with troubleshooting, I believe. Bosch's own repair/service people - third-parties, all of them - are not going to want to replace brushes; they make more money doing entire motors, I imagine. Also, they do not like it when a man watches them work or worse, when a woman (aka my wife) asks them smart questions. They are used to having their way with slightly intimidated and ignorant females - trust us, and pay us. But that's another story.
SOURCE: UL Code
Solved the unbalanced problem - open the top of the machine (press in with a flat putty knife about 3" in on the front on each side while lifting up as there are 2- 1" wide catches). Once both sides are unlatched, raise the lid then slightly lift the rear of the lid so that it fits into the curved part at the top of the hinges then open all the way - tape the lid to the top so it doesn't flap about and scotch the lid to keep it from falling back down on you. Now, look around - see all that rust? The rust has fallen into and gotten underneath one or more of the 4 white plastic suspension "ball joints" which have probably totally dried out by now from their factory grease because of the water, bleach, and rust particles. Having someone help you, simply lift up on one of the 4 corner suspension rods - gravity and weight is all that holds them down. The white ball will lift out of the socket and still be attached to the rod. Clean out the rust, lightly sand the "socket" with emery cloth, then slop in a fingerful of grease. I used automotive wheel bearing grease with graphite in it. Also scrub off all embedded rust on the white plastic ball. Lower that corner back into the newly cleaned and greased socket and repeat for the other 3 corners. Now when you move the tub around notice how the balls pivot in their sockets like they are supposed to. When they were dry and rusty they wouldn't move enough to allow the tub to twist like it should so it slammed around. Now, shake your head in disgust that after only 2 years there is so much rust that you wonder if it will make it another year before falling apart, close the lid, and try another load. That totally solved my off-balance problem where even a single handkerchief would give the UL error. It is still a finicky machine, but at least once again works like it did when new.
SOURCE: washer wil not spin or drain out after cycle completed
sounds like drain is plugged. this is a fairly easy fix,and you actually get paid to do it. unscrew the bottom panel of your washer should be 3 screws on the very bottom then you will see a white plug that is about 2 1/2" unscrew it (make sure you have a bowl under it water will leak ) and pull it out. this is where you get paid you will find all kinds of change and junk just clean it out reinstall and your clothes will be a lot drier after the spin cycle
SOURCE: washing machine wont drain keeps bleeping ERR2
It will not spin with water in.
See if you can locate a filter, and clean same.
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