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Posted on Nov 11, 2008
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2 rolls out of a 3-pack ruined.

I bought a 3-pack of film. I had one developed by mail order by kodak gallery. I was told online that the film was blank.... I took the 2nd roll to CVS for 1 hr. development. Received the negatives back. Was told either the film was bad or the camera is bad. The negatives were mostly blank with a partial blur in the middle... a few had a tiny patch at the bottom that was clear. The camera is a 3-yr old nikon n65 slr. I don't think it is the camera. The pictures that were ruined were of my son's mountain biking race:(. I am afraid to use the other roll. Any ideas? If it is the film, can you reimburse me? I still have the one unused roll.

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  • Posted on Nov 17, 2008
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Joined: Nov 17, 2008
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I would suggest you buy an off-brand roll of 12 or 24 exposures. Run it through the camera taking snaps of anything -- but make sure you vary the lighting, ISO, shutter speed, aperture, etc. as you snap the pics. Don't worry too much about composition. This roll is a quick test, NOT for photos to keep.

Have the film developed and then follow-up with comments on the results. I'll gladly assist you further at that time.
Char1ieJ

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1answer

I have several rolls of Kodak film #2366, ASA 6. Any idea where I will find someone to develop this stuff

This is a motion picture duplicating film, it is not something you typically "get developed", certainly not in the same manner as you would film intended for consumer or professional pictorial purposes.

If you would like to learn about how yuo can possibly develop it yourself, please see the following link:

http://motion.kodak.com/motion/uploadedFiles/2366_TI.pdf
Sep 30, 2014 • Photography
tip

Step by step guide for rolling a film reel for developing

Rolling film on a metal reel can be very challenging and for years I avoided using these reels in favor of the plastic ones with the large lip for leading the negative around the reel. Over the last year or so I have been working on getting around this fear of not being able to roll the film.

The first and most important thing that you have to make sure is that when you cut off the "L" shaped piece make sure that you cut the film between the sprocket holes. Those first few holes are crucial for the ability to successfully loading the film on to the reel.

On the center post of the reel there are two very small hooks that you want the negative to hook on to using those sprocket holes. These hooks work to make sure that the film stays put while you roll and throughout the development process.

Once the film is hooked on you are going to slowly turn the reel around and around holding the unrolled film on the sides. Make sure to hold on the sides because you don't want your fingers to scratch the very sensitive negative.

If you practice in the light with dead rolls of film you can check if you rolled well by holding up the roll and looking though. If you can see between the rounds of film then you have done a good job. It is important that the film be rolled smoothly because if parts are touching then the chemicals can't get in and the film will not develop properly. Once you have mastered rolling this way in the light take some time to roll a dead roll of film in the dark before you get to the real stuff (no pun intended).
on Oct 03, 2013 • Photography
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1answer

Canon AT-1 takes pictures but they do not show up on the film when developed

Remove your lens, open the back door and observe through the back, your shutter action. Hearing your shutter does not tell you that there is a picture being taken! Depending on the setting, even at 1/1000 you will see "daylight" for an instant. Obviously, your shutter is not opening at all. Let me know!
0helpful
2answers

Two rolls of film developed at CVS - apparently not exposed???

it is not unknown for film developing sites to with hold good photos so take another practice roll and have it developed somewhere else
That will prove either the camera or the developer
0helpful
1answer

I don't know how to roll up the film after it's done. I ruined the last one. How do I roll up the film?

There is a crank located on the top of the camera. Some Lomo's Ive seen have it located on the left, but it will always be on the side of the camera where you placed the film. Many cameras will also have arrows indicating what direction to turn it in order to wind the film back in. If there are no arrows, place your ruined roll of film (or a new roll of film) into the camera, and try winding it with the back open (if you're using a new roll of film, don't roll it all the way in, or you'll waste another roll).
If there is no crank, or it is broken, you can always unload your camera in perfect darkness (no red lights), and wind it back into the canister by hand.
0helpful
2answers

Film not exposing.

Ok, well are you using a lens that is compatible with the auto setting? Are the batteries new and fresh in the camera? If you are not sure about the lens, then what you can do is too look at the inside of the box of the film you are using (Kodak) has a setting and exposure guide printed on the box. Try using the required exposure for the light that you are in... say for bright sun try f 16 at 1/125th of a second. That setting is for Kodak Royal Gold 100. That is right off the Kodak exposure guide, which you can find on the web here

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consumer/products/techInfo/e41/index.shtml#exposure

I'd stick to Kodak film if possible. Try that out, and if no dice, then take the camera to a repair shop and have it looked over. good luck!
0helpful
1answer

Scratched negatives; broken tractor drive on two cameras

There doesn't seem to be a pattern with any of the Fuji films (I use Sensia and Velvia, exclusively, and have never had a problem in my Canon EOS). There are reports that the Fuji Pro films will gum up the sprockets in a camera, thanks to an adhesive strip at the end of the roll, but I'm not sure if the regular 400 speed film has the same problem. You might try a thorough cleaning, and see if it is still happening. I'm not surprised that 400 speed comes out a tad dark. Try dropping to 200 speed (I generally won't use anything above 100 speed, unless it is black&while).

Cheers
Nov 10, 2008 • Photography
0helpful
1answer

Bad film or Camera.

Return the camera to the company and see if you can get a return or at least an even exchange. Get another roll of film and shoot casual stuff. Never test a camera, film or digital for the first time at any mission critical event like an anniversary or wedding. It can lead to potential disaster. Shoot the roll with the new camera if you got it exchanged and then have it developed at Walmart or wherever is cheapest. If it works, keep it. If not, don't. BTW, if you are ever going to have to shoot a wedding or anything ever again with a film point and shoot and don't want hassles, just get disposable cameras. They are designed to work out of the box with no problems. They are of higher quality then most people think for image qulity.

Polaroid used to make good instant cameras, but their 35mm film and digital stuff I wouldn't trust as much. It's not the real Polaroid which can makes only instant film gear. . It's another company using the Polaroid brand name to try and make otherwise generic stuff look better then it is. Their digital cameras have a poor reputation. I don't think their non instant film cameras are much better. Good luck.
Apr 08, 2008 • Photography
0helpful
1answer

Pictures didn't develope

Looks like you are not loading the film onto the take-up spool correctly.

Go back to the development store and ask them if they can give you a spool of waste film (e.g. one that got exposed to the light or something). Otherwise buy the cheapest film you can find.

Load the film in the camera. Take a few frames. Open the camera back up a bit, the film should have advanced. You will be able to tell this because there is more film on the takeup spool. The frames are also numbered nearby.

It might take you a few goes to get the film to load correctly. If no luck, maybe the file wind-on is broken and the camera needs repair.
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