F2 code, Pulled pump out and ohm'ed motor and cleared all hoses. could it be control board?
SOURCE: Maytag Neptune MAH4000AWW - pump removal?
I found a screw stuck in mine once. Went to all the trouble to take it out and all apart like you're wanting to do. Then I figured out that if I had just took the flexible line off that feeds it from the tub, I could have pulled the screw out with a magnet. Whatever is in yours may be accessible the same way. If the object is non-magnetic you might use a forcreps or needlenose pliers.
SOURCE: Maytag fav6800aww not draining
Are you taking an “ND” error to the display? Good job on checking for the clog from the sump cap to the input to the drain pump and out the drain pump to the drain pipe. The sump cap is sort of semi transparent if you shine a flash light on it do you see any restrictions? I had half of a bank card stuck in mine. This the sump cap item 9 of the parts view.
Drain Pump opened up;
I would try to turn on the drain pump in service mode and see if you hear it spin up. I guess the impeller could be jammed up. So let’s try that first. I post these links constantly for support so disregard if you have them. Link to Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.
I would go to page 16 of the SM lower right hand part of page, Board Output Test and turn on the drain pump in service mode and see if the motor runs. Here is the test; close the lid and enter the Service Mode by pressing and holding the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys for three seconds or the display reads “00”
Pressing the Delicates key will lock the lid. Now press the Presoak key the drain pump will turn on do you hear it run? Stop the test as the SM states with off button or hit the Presoak key. If the drain pumps sounds like it turns on I would put in a bucket of water in the wash basket and see how the output stream looks out of the drain hose when you turn on the Drain Pump in service mode. I get about a 2.5" vertical lift of the output stream from the drain pump.
Post back for questions or any help we can provide. Rich
SOURCE: The hose to pump is clear, now where to lool
Heres a link to the complete repair manual tells you anything you need to know.
http://servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16022162.pdf
SOURCE: bad pump??? Bought used and did a few loads OK
Is this a FAV6800A or FAV9800A machine? I would normally ask for clarification but I can’t post a pic with a clarification question. I’m an owner of a FAV6800A.
I assume the error code was “ND”.
Did you open up the pump housing to expose the impeller? Make sure it hasn’t broken loose from the motor shaft and is freewheeling.
Sounds like you have checked the Sump Cap for any clogs and drain hose to drain pump for a clog.
If your machine is not a FAV6800A or FAV9800A then please disregard my solution please don't vote on the solution.
This forum doesn’t require Machine Model Number or Serial Number which is a big mistake.....Rich
SOURCE: not spinning no draining no 120 volts to the pump
Do you have the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual?
Did you measure 120VAC to the Drain Pump at the connector on the Drain Pump with power applied to the drain pump or at the Control Board Conn_P8 Pin 4 for Hot to neutral or cabinet ground?
Did you measure this while in Service Mode with the drain pump turned on in Service Mode?
Do you have the schematic of you FAV6800A? It is a FAV6800A correct?
What is the issue with not spinning? If you run a Spin Only cycle will the Spin cycle complete? Are you failing the Spin Cycle with unbalance errors such as DC or UC?
If you truly want to DIY the fix you need to go to a true DIY appliance forum such as this; http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/ I will continue to help you at that forum. This forum is terrible for posting pics and other info.
Rich
The error code F2 indicates a long drain, when the drain time exceeds 8 minutes (see images below). If you have a volt/ohm meter and are comfortable working around live electricity I can give you a few checks that will help you diagnose the problem. If you are not already sure you can perform these checks safely and competently, refer this work to a qualified professional. Working with live electrical current can be very hazardous and possibly deadly. Testing voltage output requires working with electrical current. Do not attempt these measurements without the proper tools and safeguards. I have included a set of illustrated instructions (See below). These should step you through the process of checking the drain system of your washer.
Excessive suds can prevent the pump from evacuating the water properly and will sometimes result in an F21. When the suds dissipate, the washer will then be able to pump out the water. Look for this type of condition if necessary.
If the drain pump runs but the washer will not drain the water, see if the washer will gravity drain. Pull the drain hose out of the stand pipe or sink and place it in a shallow pan at floor level. If the washer will gravity drain okay but will not drain when the drain pump is running then you will likely need to replace the drain pump.
If the washer will not gravity drain, then you still have a clog somewhere in the drain system. If you have not pulled the hose between the tub and the pump, then you could have a clog in this area.
If the washer does drain normally, then you could have a failed pressure switch, air pressure hose problem, wiring failure or a failed control board. I provided some technical information below that will help you test the pressure switch. Unplug the washer and remove the top panel to access the pressure switch and the electronic control board. If the tub is empty, you should measure continuity (near zero ohms) between contacts 21 and 22 on the pressure switch using a volt/ohm meter. The LEVEL 1, LEVEL 2 and OVERFLOW contacts should all measure open (infinite resistance). If the contacts on the pressure switch are okay, you can check the resistance through the wires at the electronic control board. If you get the correct resistance through the circuits measured at the control board then the control board will need to be replaced. If the wiring harness is bad, it will need to be replaced.
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