How to remove brake lever from handlebar

On a lot of models - you'll have one switch that is activated when you press down on the rear brake lever (foot) - you'll look for a switch device attached to that lever. You'll also have a switch usually on the handlebar levers for front (and rear if applicable levers) you'll see a separate set of wires coming from the lever - when you press in the lever - the switch is engaged and the light should come on - release and it goes out - here's a couple pictures for clarification -
#6 above is the actual switch that activates the brake light. To determine if it's this switch giving you problems - simply unplug wire lead.


#1 above is the switch for the front brake (if you have an automatic with a rear brake lever on the handlebars - there will be a switch just like this on that lever as well) to determine if this is the culprit - simply unplug. If it is - brake light will go out when you unhook. Good luck & all the best

Justin McCartney
17 South Industries, LLC

Instructions

1. Street Motorcycles
   • 1 Mount your Ninja or Eliminator motorcycle and lift it off of the kickstand. Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ON" position.
     
   • 2 Reach down to the base of the fuel tank with your left hand and turn the fuel valve, or petcock, to the "ON" position. This will place the fuel valve lever in the 6 o'clock position.
     
   • 3 Place the engine kill switch on the right handlebar into the "RUN" position.
     
   • 4 Pull in the clutch lever and depress the starter button on the right handlebar to start the motor.
     

TWIST GRIP SENSOR 4.10

REMOVAL

Remove the left side saddlebag, remove the left side cover, remove the main fuse, (Do not remove the switch housing assembly without first placing the 5/32 inch (4.0 mm) cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removal without the insert may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger of the front stoplight switch. Use the eyelet of an ordinary cable strap if the cardboard insert is not available.), place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket, remove the upper and the lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing, remove the lower clamp screw with its flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar (a light tug may be necessary to release the index pins in the grip from their receptacle in the twist grip sensor seal cap), if present, pull the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit from the holes in the handlebar. FOR FLHR/C: remove the headlamp and the handlebar clamp shroud, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud on the fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and disconnect it, FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U remove the outer fairing, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud at the top of the right fairing support brace (inboard side) and disconnect it, FOR FLTR remove the outer fairing and bezel and disconnect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black). (Note that the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if the twist grip sensor is pulled too strongly and a damaged latch will prevent a positive pin and socket housing engagement and also since the connector is not serviceable, any damage requires replacement of the twist grip sensor jumper harness. THEN gently pull the twist grip sensor out of handlebar only as far as necessary to access the green twist grip sensor connector. FOR BEST RESULTS straighten out the conduit on the Molex connector end of the jumper harness and feed it through the slot at the front of the handlebar while pulling it and if the harness sticks inside handlebar while pulling on the twist grip sensor, pull the Molex connector end to retract the harness somewhat and then try again gently working the harness back and forth in this manner until the twist grip sensor connector is accessible. (Note again, that if the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if pried and that a damaged latch will prevent positive pin and socket housings engagement and that since the connector is not serviceable, any damage will require twist grip sensor jumper harness replacement). THEN gently insert a small flat blade screwdriver between the pin and socket housings and when the bottom edge of the latch is engaged separate the housings. (Do not pivot or rotate the screwdriver after insertion or damage to the pin housing will occur), remove the twist grip sensor.

INSTALLATION

(Take note that each twist grip sensor contains the terminals for installation of a heated throttle grip available through P&A and that while the seal cap protects the terminals from dirt and moisture it also serves as a retention device for installation of the throttle grip.)

Verify that seal cap is installed at end of the twist grip sensor. If the seal cap is not present, proceed by seeing if the seal cap is engaged onto the index pins inside the throttle grip and if so use a stiff piece of mechanics wire to lasso seal cap and pull it free of the index pins. If it is missing or damaged get a new one. THEN check the condition of the O-ring on the seal cap and because the O-ring is not sold separately a new seal cap will be required if the O-ring needs to be replaced. Install the seal cap engaging the legs in the slots at the end of the twist grip sensor. For best results try installing one leg first and depressing the second leg slightly with a small flat blade screwdriver push down on the seal cap until it is fully installed. THEN connect the green twist grip sensor connector and gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the twist grip sensor into the handlebar. THEN fit the index tabs on the twist grip sensor into the slots in the handlebar noting that one index tab and slot are smaller than the others to prevent improper assembly. THEN slide the throttle grip over the end of the handlebar rotate the grip to verify that the internal splines are engaged with the splines on the twist grip sensor. (Take note now that it is not necessary to hold the throttle grip onto the handlebar because the index pins in the grip engage the receptacle in the seal cap of the twist grip sensor preventing the grip from sliding off). THEN position the lower switch housing beneath the throttle grip so the ribs at the end of the throttle grip engage the slot in the lower switch housing. THEN position the upper switch housing over the handlebar and the lower switch housing, start the upper and lower switch housing screws but do not tighten them at this point, verify that the wire harness conduit runs in the depression at bottom of handlebar, put the brake lever/master cylinder assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the top of the brake lever bracket, align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the master cylinder housing and start the lower screw with its flat washer, position it for rider comfort but do not pull the switch housings so far inboard as to cause the throttle grip to bind or drag on the handlebar and rotate the throttle grip to verify that it freely returns to the idle position. THEN starting with the top screw tighten the handlebar clamp screws to 72-80 in-lbs (8-9 Nm) always tightening the lower switch housing screw first, so that any gap between the upper and lower housings is at the front of the switch assembly. THEN tighten the lower and upper switch housing screws to 35-45 in-lbs (4-5 Nm), remove the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket and FOR FLHR/C connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install it on its T-stud on fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and install the handlebar clamp shroud and headlamp. FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U draw the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and conduit forward to the front of the upper fork bracket, and then route it under the right radio support bracket to the area behind the fairing support brace, connect the connector and install it on its T-stud at top of fairing support brace (inboard side) and install the outer fairing. FOR FLTR connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install the outer fairing and bezel. THEN, if present, install the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit into the holes in the handlebar install the main fuse, install the left side cover and install the left side saddlebag. (NOTE that whenever a new twist grip sensor (or ECM) is installed, you must put the engine run/stop switch in the RUN position and turn the ignition/light keyswitch to IGNITION and then back to OFF four times (without starting engine), allowing at least three seconds to elapse between ignition cycles. This is done because the ECM uses the first four ignition cycles to establish the optimum idle speed and so there may be initial performance problems such as high idle or hesitation when the throttle is opened if the procedure is not followed.) THEN turn the ignition/light key switch to IGNITION and apply the brake lever to test the correct operation of the brake lamp.

TWIST GRIP SENSOR JUMPER HARNESS

Removal

Remove the twist grip sensor. Get a length of strong flexible mechanics wire of sufficient strength to pull the conduit and connector through the handlebar without breaking AND of sufficient length that the free end will not be lost in the handlebar when pulled. THEN securely attach the mechanics wire to the jumper harness inboard of the twist grip sensor connector pin housing and for best results, install the mechanics wire onto the conduit to keep it from bunching up inside of the handlebar when it is pulled. THEN gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the conduit, the connector and the mechanics wire out through the slot at the front of the handlebar and if the harness sticks at all inside of the handlebar, pull back on the twist grip sensor connector end to retract the harness slightly and then try again to gently work the harness back and forth in this manner until it is free. THEN remove the mechanics wire from the jumper harness.

This is from a different model but it's old school, too, so it probably applies to yours.

http://www.mmba.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=90679

"The Shimano 200GS is held to the bar with a hidden screw like old ten-speed brake levers. Remove the cable. Squeeze the brake lever. Look for the head of a screw or bolt in the gap exposed by the open lever/perch."

Have you been working on anything on the right handlebar? If so, you probably broke the front brake light switch. This is a common occurrence. Some times they break on their own as well. From the bottom side of the brake lever on the handlebars, look up and see if you see a pin that comes out and rest against a tab on the lever. If so, press this back into the right handlebar switch housing to see if the brake light goes off. If it does and it only take a small amount of movement, you may can loosen the front master cylinder slightly and move it down against the right handlebar switch housing. If that doesn't work. I'm afraid you're going to have to replace the switch.

Good Luck
Steve

Loosen the front brake master cylinder clamping bolts and slide the entire assembly down towards the right handlebar switch housing as close as it will go. If the brake light does not go off then, the switch in the right handlebar switch housing is broken and must be replace.

To replace the switch, you must take the two bolts that hold the housing halves together out. Lift the upper half and loosen the throttle cable and idle cable. Remove the throttle sleeve and allow the lower half of switch housing to come away from the handlebar. The front brake light switch is the small switch in front of the housing. Unsolder the wires, replace the switch with a new one, and resolder the original wires to the new switch. Reassemble the throttle sleeve and switch housing, adjust the throttle cable and idle cable and check for proper operation.

Ride safe
Steve

There are two switches. One is on the right handlebar switch housing. It is operated by the front brake lever. When you pull the lever, it pivots on a pin which causes the backside of the lever to move forward. There is a tap on the backside of the lever that presses the front brake light switch turning the brake light off. When you pull the lever, the tab moves forward and releases the switch turning the light on. Now, if the light stays on, you can loosen the bolts that hold the front brake master cylinder onto the handlebars, slide the front brake master cylinder down as close to the right handlebar switch housing as possible. If this doesn't turn the light off, this switch my be bad or the lever has too much wear in it and should be replaced.

There is another switch in the system for the rear brake. Follow the metal brake line coming out of the rear of the rear brake master cylinder and you'll come to a "Tee fitting" with a pressure switch in it. This is the rear brake light switch. Usually when it goes bad, the brake lights will not come on, not light up all time. But, then I'm pretty sure that I haven't seen everytig. Test the switch for contineuity using an obm meter.

Good Luck
Steve

do you have the Shimano STI levers on a drop handle bar?
(if so then pull the brake lever hard to expose a hidden screw/allen key bolt)

I assume you want to move the brake levers to another position on the handlebar. Don't - they are where they belong. Your local bike shop or library bike book can show you how to use them properly. Either may suggest you use a different style of handlebar; listen to their reasons and make up your own mind. Finally, the cable from each lever runs underneath the handlebar padding or tape; if you want to move the lever more than a fraction, remove that tape. Then find the shallow groove on the outer side of the lever body, underneath the rubber lever hood - use a 4 mm allen down that groove to loosen the attachment band

If the screw is all the way tight and still slipping ... try to find a fatter part of the handle bar to mount the grip to. You will probably will not find any such that is convenient for you to continue to use the brake ... remove the grip, wrap some electrical tape around the handle bar, reattach the grip. Tighten it and give it a try.

I hope this works for you

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