Maytag HAV2357AWW. Disassembled agitator evrything looked ok. When I turn the belt underneath counter clockwise the moter thing turns clockwise. When I turn the belt clockwise nothing happens. I havent been able to see the moter thing go counter clockwise. At some point doesnt it have to go that way to agitate? Please help.
A common problem with noises from washing
machines has been the under wire that may come out of small clothes. In the
washer they can get stuck in one of the inner basket holes and make a scrapping
noise, they can actually make there way into the pump and jam the pump, or make
a terrible noise when the pump is running. Grab a flash light and have a peek
inside the washer for this. Front load washers seem very common to this happen!
If the tiny cloth is showing signs of fraying, may be best not to wash it
in the washing machine, replace the cloth.
Maytag Dependable care washer.....Locate a 1/4 inch screw on the side of the agitator, ( about 3/4 of the way down) remove this screw and lift up on the agitator...picture.
Maytag Atlantis, Norge, Performa by Maytag.....Remove the cap and softener dispenser by pulling it off and locate the agitator bolt, remove bolt and lift up on the agitator...picture.
Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.
Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.
A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ):
~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.
~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged. Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.
~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.
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The tub fills with water and then everything just stops-no agitation, no draining. Any ideas?
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