On our old GE Washer (which works great otherwise!) the plasticagitator pops up and then doesn't agitate. In otherwords, I can easilypull the plastic agitator right up off of the metal "rod" that actuallyturns it - and remove it from the washing machine very easily when it has popped up on it's own. I see that there is a rubbery looking collar that fits of thetop of the "rod" that apparantly keeps the plastic agitator on snugglyunder normal circumstances. So I think that when this pops up theplastic agitator isn't turning because it isn't gripping the "rod"? When it gets to this point sometimes I am successful at jamming it back into place and then it works for a little while but sometimes doesn't make it through 1 cycle. So, how do I fix it? Does it need a new rubbery collar thingy and if itdoes, what would I ask for. Or is the problem greater than that. Ican't see any other mechanism that would hold that agitator in placeother than the rubbery collar that looks like it is about a 4" long grippy type tupe that fits over the upper neck of the "metal rod". I LOVE thiswasher! I don't want it to die!!! HELP!!!
SOURCE: GE Top Load Washing Machine -- Agitator will not cycle
Agitator's don't spin on wash cycle.
I would suggest washing the clothes without soap until they rinse clear. If you have hard water, the soap will not easily rinse out of clothes, or off of you when you use soap to wash or shower.
Reduce the amount of soap you use in each wash if this is the case. It sounds like your washing machine is working right.
SOURCE: GE WHDRR418G1WW Washing Machine will not agitate or spin/rinse cycle
Tell me more Is there voltage to motor? The transmission makes it agitate .
SOURCE: GE Washer does not drain or spin
Inspect the drain hose for kinks
Test the timer control
Test the lid switch (some models)
Inspect the water pump
Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
Inspect the motor coupler
SOURCE: Knocking noise during agitation cycle - GE WNSR2100T8WW
I believe you must have one of the bottom of the line cheapo washers, as I do--the one with the plastic, rather than steel wash tub and basket? These are pretty poor machines. They cut corners drastically in every part of the design. I've replaced the aluminum hub that supports the spin basket ( the hub is bare aluminum and corrodes within about 5 years use from the highly alkaline detergent, then it fractures under mechanical stress. Then the motor burned out. I was able to get a nearly new motor on ebay for $90 incl. shipping. (BTW, if you need appliance parts try GOOD Appliance on ebay for new and salvaged parts--they're excellent! 100% feedback rating) However, I now have the same problem--a fairly loud knocking noise during the agitation phases of the cycle. This is cause by a really crappy transmission design that does not wear well. My advice is just ignore it as long as it works and isn't leaking oil and the tub seal is still good. If it does finally go to pieces get one on ebay--that is if you feel up to doing the job yourself since a repair person would charge more than it's worth to install it. I believe new ones can be had on ebay for about $80, some are sold with seal kits. Bottom line is--if you want a machine that will last you for 15-20 years--don't buy a cheapo model. The front loaders are better as they use far less hot water (energy and water savings) but a good one is going to be anywhere from about $800 to $1600.
SOURCE: GE WDSR2080D4WW top load washer agitator - Is
pull out the agitator. this may be difficult because soap gets built up underneath and
Testimonial: "thanks! we'll get back with you on if this works or not!"
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Will not agitate. agitator is popped up.
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