Moved food from fridge to upper shelves in freezer to keep cold, still frost on freezer back panel, ice on freezer top shelf is cold -- but not frozen, no air moving from freezer to fridge, changed defrost thermostat 4 days ago and it worked beautifully, now back to ground zero
This fan needs to run when the compressor runs,check fan blade for being jammed by ice if you have this much ice on back wall as ice will stall motor,if no fan there will be no cool air to refrige compartment also the defrost drain tray will fill with water then freeze over which in turn floods the freezer floor and refrige compartments cause it cannot drain to the pan in the bottom
SOURCE: freezer/fridge won't get cold enough
Madezmom, you have a defrost issue. If your model starts with 106 you more than likley have a bad defrost bi-metal, I will attach a picture of bad one. This sits on the evaporator in the freezer section behind the panel. You will have to remove the shelves and remove the back panel. Defrost the evaporator completely. The part number for the bi-metal is 2196155. See if yours is bulged like the one in the attached photo. If so, that's your problem..Catriver..post back.
SOURCE: kenmore sideby side fridge
You have a defrost system problem. Defrost is controlled by a timer which energizes the heater circuit. The heater circuit has a radiant or cal rod type heater which melts the frost from the coil. When the coil reaches a temperature where all ice would be gone a termination switch opens and shuts of the heater. The timer will continue to run until defrost time expires (18-22 minutes).
If you can locate the timer there is a clutch head screw to advance the timer to the defrost position. Turn the screw clockwise SLOWLY until you hear one audible click. The heaters should come on and defrost take place. If the unit restarts after the 18-22 minute period the timer is good, if it does not restart advance the screw to a second audible click and it will restart.
If you had to turn the timer the to second click to get it started cooling replace the timer.
If the unit restarted after the 18-22 minutes and defrost did not happen your problem is in the heater circuit. This would be an open heater or bad defrost terminator switch. To access the heater and defrost terminator the back panel in the freezer section must be removed. With an Ohm meter you can check the heater to see if it is good.
SOURCE: Frozen vents from freezer to fridge
you most likely have a defrost problem.or a clogged drain.you need to check your defrost heater defrost timer and thermostat.if ice is formed over drain then you can unclog drain with hot water.you will see when it is unclogged,water will run down drain without running over into bottom of freezer.
SOURCE: model# 596.58642891 freezer side thawed first and
I humbly disagree with Sea Breeze. We know the thermostat (cold control) is working because the fans are running and the compressor is hot to the touch. So we're getting power to the compressor. Now, only TWO things will keep the compressor from firing up when it has power supplied to it.
1.) A failed Starter. (that box connected to the left side of the compressor.)
2.) A failed compressor.
Then there are two things that'll take out the starter.
1.) Just a mechanical failure within the starter (blown ceramic disk). Note ---> You can normally tell if a starter is bad just by taking it off the compressor and shaking it. If it sounds like it has pebbles in it... it's bad. If it's solid, it's probably good.
2.) If the compressor locks up or fails, the starter is not far behind.
This Kenmore is made by Frigidaire. My experience with these is that 90% of the time, the compressor has locked up. You said you had access to the compressor... if it's made by Tecumseh (you'll see a blue Indian head logo on the sticker) I can almost guarantee it's failed. (Frigidaire is now putting Embraco compressors in their machines because Tecumseh was such a terrible one.)
All that to say this... you may decide that you want to replace the starter (if it's bad/rattling). If you do, go here and look at parts # 211 & 251 on the diagram... you'll need these. So, all-in-all, it'd cost around $20 plus shipping to replace the starter. If the new starter works? Great! You fell within the 10%... (almost like winning the lottery!) If the starter doesn't work, all you're out is the $20.
Good luck,
SG
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if u replaced the defrost terminator and stikll a problem I would check the defrost timer, u can use a small screw driver to place into the tiny hole located under the timer and turn clockwise till u hear 2 clicks this will shut it off defrost mode and u should hear the fan and compressor come back on, then u know u have a bad timer
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