My refirgerator model number pbf2255hew stop cooling & compressor stop working...tries to come on but won't

Sounds like the start capacitor has failed. They buzz when the fail and get hot..

https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+mfi2568aeb+start+capacitor

..

Try cleaning the cooling coils on the fridge, probably all covered with dust & junk. Usually underneath the fridge.

have you smelled anything burning like an electrical smell or pull the machine out,remove the bottom panel and listen to see if you can hear a clicking sound coming from the compressor like every 3 to 5 minutes,you could have a bad start device located on the side of the compressor or a bad computer board,also if you remove the bottom kick panel you should find a tech sheet either tucked in the panel or taped inside the cabinet down there,it will tell you how to do some tests,when you open the freezer door,do you hear the fan running,if so i'd start at the start device,unplug the machine,remove the clip and cover on the side of compressor slide off the device and shake it,if it sounds like there's pieces rattling around in it that's the easiest way to check it
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Start-Device/67005560/1159182
this is the new device or read out the overload and relay with meter,the compressor will probably be red hot so keep it unplugged it ain't cooling anything anyway and you won't damage the compressor
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/KITCHENAID-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-KBFA20ERWH00/0593/0161000/W0511068/00003?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

here's a picture of the board part number 5 and board number W10207861,it definitely sounds like the compressor so i'd check the start device first.hope this helps

Make & model number would help. What do you mean NOT WORKING...not cooling, not operating, no cavity light...etc. Could be many issues, if there is cavity light then there is power to unit. Other items...compressor start device, cold control, defrost timer, rodent issues. Fan issues.

the refrigerant that makes the cooling happen in your refirgerator may have leaked out and caused the cooling to stop

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

;;'

Was the fridge laying down? How long? Rule is if a fridge is laying down for an hour leave standing for a minium of an hour WITHOUT PLUGGED IN. ^hours laying equals 6 hrs standing. I tell everyone give it 24hrs of standing to eliminate problems. If you plugged it in without enough time for the oil in the compressor to return back to the compressor you may have fried your compressor. Now if you did leave it long enough and the oil in the compressor got back in compressor before plugging in. It could be in your defrost timer or your start relay. Does the fan in freezer come on? Push the switch to make the fridge think door is shut. If fan does not run it sounds like the defrost timer. If fan does run the check the start relay on compressor. Does the compressor turn on? Do you hear a clicking sound coming from copressor? If you hear a clicking noise than its your start relay trying to come on. Replace start relay and overload. The model number you gave me is not valid so get the full model number and check thru Searspartsdirect.com

If you need further assistance please feel free to contact.

Hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 - Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan - Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper - Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils - Check to see that the condenser coils don't have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor - Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 - Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 - Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 - Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven't got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn't work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Hope this will help in solving the problem....

Replace the relay (no more than $20) and if still won't start the compresor has to be replaced.

it sounds like a bad: 

•       start switch (on the side of the compressor) or
  
•       compressor itself
  

the start switch clicks  off usually when the compressor is pulling too many amps or the compressor is overheating. if the compressor is not even running then its probably not overheating.
so either the compressor is pulling too many amps 
(bad compressor) or the start switch is bad and cannot handle the amps required to start the compressor.