Cover latch for battery door broken.

Many dryers have different door latches. not sure what you have.
Check by the latch function and look for broken plastic catches.
Sometimes if you were rough on the door itself, the hinges bend a bit and now the 'Catch ' doesn't align properly

Look at the bottom latch The inside catch is a white nylon cam in a slot at the bottom.If it is there and working you can push it and feel a spring action. It's possible a drop of mineral oil or vegetable oil will revive it if it's still there.( It's not wise to use petroleum based oil on non metalac parts)

Remove the cover and take a look at why it is not latching. I suspect there is a catch that is broken. Find replacement latch at your local appliance parts store.

Thanks for your question today.

Door catches.

If one of the latches has broken off and is not lifting the other latch clear of the housing. Remove from any power source, remove the cover of the cabinet. Slacken off the clamp mechanism and ease the clamp over the guide to allow the door to open. When a new door lever is in place, the door may be easily adjusted by slackening off the screws that clamp the door catch/actuators in place whilst holding the door closed and then tightening the screws. The rear of the door may be adjusted by slackening the lower door hinge screws and adjusting as required.
I hope that helps.

Door switches

If one of the door interlock switches is not switching properly, that can cause the turntable/light to come on even though the "Starts" button has not been depressed due to the wiring of the switches.
Check for faulty door switches and/or contaminated actuators.
I hope that helps.

With the front door open look at the inside /right side about half way down . There should be a stub of plastic molded into the door . this should push a switch when teh door is closed. if not you may need to "extend" the stub somehow as to activate teh switch. I have a short piece of tubing over the stub to get about 1/8 inch of aditional length. Works great.

Your problem is probably a broken plastic switch bracket . Pt # 2180226 . To access , use a butter knife between the dispensor grill and the lower portion of the dispensor cover . FIRST , remove the cover on the top freezer hinge , and disconnect the plug there . This removes all power to the door . Insert the knife about 1 " from the side , and push down and inward , to push the plastic tab of the cover , outward . Do the same for the other side . Lift upward to slip the top tabs free of the mount . Disconnect the plug to the dispensor cover , and remove the cover . The white piece with the 2 switches , probably has a short plastic stub , broken off which holds the ice dispensor switch . Looks like maybe 4 small screws , hold the switch bracket on . Transfer the switches carefully ,because you are working with plastic . When reinstalling the dispensor cover , after attaching the receptical , slip the top portion of the cover in place , and pop the bottom to latch the lower clips .

Battery cover: http://uscamera.com/fc3-005.htm

I'm not an washing machine engineer but I do tend to do all my own home repairs - had to fix this fault this morning,

Quite easy to fix as long as there are no broken parts in the interlock and the solenoid isn't jammed.

UNPLUG FROM MAINS

Remove the top - 2 Philips or flat blade screws - pull backwards.

Remove front door - large flat blade inserted into gap in lower door hinge at back and gently twist to widen gap while pulling the door forward at bottom.

Remove 4 torx type screws (not sure what size) and 2 long torx screws from behind the hinge.

You may want to remove the coin trap door now - it makes the job of removal and refitting the front panel easier. Remember to put a tray underneath!

Unplug the ribbon connector for the front panel from it's socket and the clips - unplug the little pipe from the middle of the front panel.

Gently lift the front cover pulling the bottom edge forward a bit to ease removal. It is not necessary to fully remove the front panel so you can leave the mains switch connected.

Unhook the emergency release strap from the pivot arm.

2 Torx Screws above and below the door latch hole secure the latch assembly. Unplug the latch from a socket past the little foam block on the front - just inside the machine.

You now have the latch. Operation is quite obvious. The door loop pushes an angled plate that swings a hook into the loop. The solenoid when activated pushes a bar down to lock the hook in place and push down on 2 micro switches wired in series as the interlock.

To strip down the assembly unplug the micro switch plugs and push a small screwdriver into the top and bottom catches.

You can now lubricate the latch and check the function of the micro switches using a meter. They a easily replaced if you can find the correct type. (Unofficially - for a home repair - if one is not working you could always bypass one - but I wouldn't condone that obviously)

If you are careful enough - the operation of the solenoid and latch can be checked and observed by plugging the unit back in and pushing the door loop into the latch - be careful of the exposed wires etc - not sure what voltages are there!!

If it's unservicable then a replacement is about £35 online.

Reassemble in reverse - nothing to point out and is quite straghtforward. Dont forget the little pipe on the back of the control panel - it's easily missed.

Hope this helps.

Darren

Usually it's not thespring but instead the "latch head", which has a little loop on the backside to hold the spring. The loop breaks off.

The latch head is the long plastic piece with two protruding hooks which activate the hidden door switches.

The door will need to be taken apart (but not removed from the oven!) to get to the latch head. See the attached example photo.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety and disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can order Sharp parts from Tritronics at http://www.wehaveparts.com

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