My Panasonic Inverter Fridge NR-D512X shuts off itself for about 12 hours and turns itself on again. This cycle has continued for a week now. Help!
Most likely the inverter itself is causing that
SOURCE: fridge compressor runs continuously
make sure its cooling well it could be low on freon and causing it to run continually, it should be iced up if running and freon is not low.
SOURCE: have Vestfrost Fridge/Freezer was shut
I have the sample problem, Dan in NJ Same exact problem as danilyn....ugh
SOURCE: GE refrigerator 12 years old runs continuously, exterior warm
Probably not. Newer (and I mean under 15 years old or so) refrigerators may run more % of the time than older units, but are using far less energy while running, so total energy consumption is actually less. The newest energy star models often use less electricity than a single incandescent light bulb uses if left on 24/7. If your run times are noticeably longer just recently, and there have been no other significant changes to account for it (like more and / or longer door openings or a warmer ambient temp., etc.) then you may have caught a defrost problem or bad door gasket problem early. The warm temp on the outer case near the freezer is to prevent condensation from forming in those areas, and is normal. (as a matter of fact, older refrigs often used low wattage electric heaters for that task, almost all newer units use waste heat from the cooling system to accomplish that task) Please don't bother rating this solution, as anything but a Fix-Ya lowers my overall score. Thanks.
SOURCE: fridge condensation - freezer thawing
OK now I'm wondering are theses numbers your getting 4 -9 the actual temps of the refrigerator and the freezer? and do they feel this cold and correct to you? I know the refrigerator side shouldn't be below 34 or so and definitely not below 32. If this is correct and the numbers are not settings but temps. (Now if you have a touch pad its electronic. If it has knobs it has a separate defrost and thermostat and are electro-mechanical)
If electronic Your control board and possibly defrost control are out.
It would more likely be the sensors going to the board(s) It will both sensors have the possibility of causing your problem. 1 will control the run of the compressor (and this one could and probably is connected to the inside coil) and 1 will control the air damper tween the refdg and freezer compartments, and may turn on the inside fan operation too.
(this would be my first suspect if these are degrees numbers). Look at the thermostat control see if it is attached to the indoor coil (usually the tube leavign the indoor section. If its not attached its not sensing the coil temp and when goes into defrost wala its not senmsing temps like its designed to do. Look for a broken clip or possible a plastic wire tie that holds this sensor in place.
Please get back to me with what you see - find on this look up.
If there is no cooling at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.
Please check the link below for tips to remove the panels/parts:
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Since there is cooling on the freezer the fault can be the defrost timer. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.
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