Bought new XP8000e

When current is going through wiring and devices it normally operates warm. That is why most wire and devices such as breakers are rated at 70 degrees Celsius. In a panel, heat can be transferred through the buss bar they are connected to.
Breakers will trip for 2 reasons. Overload amperage and heat.

the ONAN generator only charges its own battery that it uses to start the machine,the generator itself is grounded with a 6 ft copper rod that is driven into the ground and secured to the ground strap of the generator,the wiring from the generator goes to a transfer switch that is installed ONLY BY A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN! DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS YOURSELF!,the switch is hooked up to your main electric line at the meter and to the breaker box,when the switch is used,it shuts off the main electricity from the company and opens the circuit to the generator only.here is the transfer switch,it can run everything up too 100 amps in your house or only 1 thing like your heat.

You can but why not get a new breaker first. Once into the panel and you're done.

Why did you move from one side to the other? What you say about the kitchen light is not possible. Did you also relocate wires from any other location inside the panel box. Also, is it possible for you to attach photos of your panel and perhaps a list of each breakers circuit.

Ground Fault ???
Troubleshooting Ground Fault

Troubleshooting a ground fault circuit interrupt, or GFI, breaker is pretty straightforward. Troubleshooting the circuit itself can be quite time-consuming.
The GFI breaker is designed with a test button incorporated into the breaker itself.
Pushing the test button should trip the breaker.
On GFI-style breakers the neutral wire going into the house's outlets is connected to the breaker's neutral connector, the white neutral that comes out of the breaker is connected to the neutral bus in the panel, isolating the neutral bus from the neutral wire going into the house.
The test button actually shorts the neutral wire feeding the circuit to the neutral bus in the electrical panel creating a ground fault that should trip the breaker.
It is considered a ground fault because the neutral bus in the main electrical panel is actually connected to the ground bus through the panel's metal casing. What to do if the test button isn't tripping the breaker
1
Push the test button on the GFI breaker.
The breaker should trip.
If the breaker does not trip, then it may be that the breaker has already tripped and just looks like it's on.
The position of the switch may only move slightly from the on position towards the off position when tripped.

2
Push the switch on the GFI breaker all of the way toward the off position.
It may take some force to get the breaker to reset.
Turn the breaker back to the on position.
When the breaker has been reset properly you should feel some resistance when pushing the switch back on.



3 Push the test button again and the breaker should trip.
If the breaker still doesn't trip then you should test for power at the screw connections inside of the electrical panel.
Remove the screw that holds the dead front covering the breaker's connections.
Remove the dead front cover.

4
Test for power with your voltmeter set on AC volts on the highest scale.
For a single pole GFI breaker, touch the black lead from the tester to the silver screw on the GFI breaker and touch the red lead from the tester to the brass screw on the GFI breaker.
You should see 110 volts on the tester. If voltage is seen but the test button won't trip the breaker, then the breaker is bad and should be replaced.

5
Test for power on a two pole breaker by touching the red voltmeter lead to one of screws with a black or red wire connected to it.
Touch the black lead to the other screw with a black or red wire connected to it.
You should read 220 volts or close to it on your voltmeter.
If you read voltage and the test button won't trip, the breaker is bad and needs to be replaced.

What to do if the breaker won't reset and keeps tripping when turned on
6
Unplug everything that is plugged into any of the outlets on the circuit in question.
Try resetting the breaker again by pushing the switch all the way to the off position and then turning it back to the on position.
If it won't reset and trips when the breaker's switch hits the on position, it could be a bad breaker or a problem in the circuit itself.
7
Use your straight-tipped screwdriver to loosen the brass connection screw or screws on the GFI breaker.
Pull the black hot wire, or wires, out of the breaker's connectors.
Loosen the silver screw the white wire is connected to and remove it from the GFI breaker.

8
Push the switch all the way to the off position.
Turn the switch back to the on position.
If the breaker still won't reset, then the problem is the breaker itself and it should be replaced with a new one of the same size, brand and model.
If the breaker resets normally and the test button trips the breaker when pushed, the problem is in the circuit itself and an electrician should be called to find your ground fault.

9
Reconnect the black wire, or wires, to the brass screws on the GFI breaker.
Reconnect the white wire to the silver screw on the GFI breaker.

10
Replace the dead front cover into the breaker panel.
Install the screw or screws that hold the dead front in place.



http://www.hilo-electric.com/blank?pageid=63

Here are links to help, then add a comment:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Inside-Main-Breaker-Box-12.jpg
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http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html#T104
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Test-wires-for-voltage-1-600.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T104-wire-from-breaker-600.jpg
Always stand on dry boards and never directly on ground when testing live electricity. Do no lean into or touch anything made of metal. Tape wood sticks to tester leads.
240Volt circuit does not use neutral wire. Neutral is used to complete circuit for 120Volt... and that is only function for neutral.
Neutral and ground wires connect back to same wire coming in from the electric company transformer. So in a sense, neutral and ground are same.
However both neutral and ground wires connect to separate busbars inside the breaker box. And then both those busbars are bonded together or joined together ... so ground and neutral become the same thing inside breaker box.
For national electric code, the ground wire runs to each fixture, outlet, motor, appliance etc. The ground wire is essential for safety.
Absolutely the ground wire must connect to motor in case the motor housing becomes electrified after the motor overheats etc.
The ground wire carries no voltage and is safe to touch ... but don't test that theory in event there is funky off-code wiring on premises.
Please add a comment May 2013 for followup, and if you need specific wiring diagram... attach image of your situation

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

You may have a bad ground or neutral wire in the circuit breaker panel for your house. Chack all wire connections and make sure that the black wire from your breaker panel connects to the black wire of the furnace. Check all ground wires in the furnace.

See 60 Amp sub-panel image

Above image shows drawing of 60Amp sub-panel located next to main panel. Drawing shows #6 wire... 125' distance to garage calls for #4 wire. I ran #4 to my barn and have no problems.

Give thought to how many new breakers you want at garage.
See photo of subpanel that holds three 240V breakers

Using drawing as a guide. Replace existing 240Volt breaker with new 60 Amp breaker. Two hot wires connect to new 60 Amp breaker. Neutral connects to neutral busbar.

More space: You can free up space in main breaker box using a tandem breaker. Or by doubling up 2 lightly used 120V circuits onto one breaker. Do not double-up on 240 Breakers

Conduit: You want PVC conduit large enough to fit three #4 wires. Bigger conduit is easier to pull wires ... and maybe later ethernet wire, or alarm wire etc.

Ground wire: You can put a ground rod at garage and run #6 bare copper between sub-panel neutral-busbar and ground rod. Attach ground wire firmly with grounding clamp.

I want you to check with local electrical supply for exact code in your area concerning conduit requirements, grounding, and wire size. Tighten all lugs very tight against wire.

It sounds like he was running something at 200 volts using both sides of the breaker, If not, he is definitely using the white wire someplace as the hot and just waiting for somebody to get zapped on it. The breaker could be bad, might be the problem, they do go bad. Just turn off the main, keep away from the big wires feeding the panel, take off your watch and rings, pop out the breaker, pull the wires off, put the wires on the new beaker, pop it back in, turn on the main, if it still breaks, you gotta chase down that white wire, cause something is wrong, I would check whatever it is that it powers to make sure it is right at the receptacle end. It should be marked. Hope this helps.

I just read the properly grounded part, if he is using the ground for the neutral, that is the problem, most newer boxes are polarized, meaning ground and neutral are separate, check out that wire, and see where it goes. If it is running something at 220 volts, mark the wire with black tape, and you should run a neutral to it to be safe.

Run 1 1/2" to 2" gray pvc conduit.