Drum doesn't turn fully

SOURCE: Drum Does Not Spin

We had the same problem on a 7-yr. old WFK02401 washer that had been used daily for 7 years. Bosch's approved repair people quoted us $350 for installing a new motor. In fact, all it needed - knock wood - was new motor brushes, for which I paid all of $45, including shipping (or cheaper, if I'd ordered directly from Bosch.) To replace these requires a half-inch wrench and a bit of confidence and common sense. I won't go into all the details, here, except to say that you need to remove just two bolts, unattach the bundle of wires strapped to the motor housing, take out the motor, replace the brushes, and put back the motor. There may be a problem with one of the control modules in the machine - electronics that oversee the washing cycle and turn the motor and other items on and off during same - in which case you may want to find a repair person. I just learned that there is a circuit diagram pasted under the machine's top cover; it includes some resistance values (ohms) that can help with troubleshooting, I believe. Bosch's own repair/service people - third-parties, all of them - are not going to want to replace brushes; they make more money doing entire motors, I imagine. Also, they do not like it when a man watches them work or worse, when a woman (aka my wife) asks them smart questions. They are used to having their way with slightly intimidated and ignorant females - trust us, and pay us. But that's another story.

SOURCE: drum off balance

It's either a bad suspension spring or you have a crack in the tub support.

SOURCE: Drum not spinning during some spin cycles

Replace the direct drive coupling.

SOURCE: Drum will not spin

Hi,
I am the new owner of a used Asko Cylinda 10504.
The last owner briefly demonstrated the washer starting a wash cycle and entering the agitation cycle of the wash before stopping and pumping the water out and spinning in a final end cycle. I bought it. I had the machine installed turned it on and cannot get it to go through the wash cycle. After starting at #1 it goes through a perpetual spin cycle of sorts--water and soap soaking the drum and laundry but not enough water to fill up half way or less. It stops at number 4 on the program knob sits on a red dot (next to the #4) and does nothing. I then manually move it to the next cycle and it repeats the spin cycle again until I have advanced the program to the end. No wash cycle no rinse cycle. Nothing. When it advances to the red dot I wait for at least 5 minutes before manually advancing the knob. The instructions say that I should get the water pumped out by turning the program knob to #7 or #9 but in both cases it just spins and does no empty or finish in the end spin cycle of several (9?) minutes. Nothing but banging and spinning. The water seems to get into the drum as well as the detergent but nothing else is happening.
No mater where I start the program it spins and sloshes soapy water, pumping almost nothing out.
Any suggestions short of putting it on the curb or paying a kings ransom to fly a tech out to look at it?

MY GUESS.
It seems that it is repeating the same brief cycle over and over. During the move to my house the electronics re set(??!?!?) and now need to be set to the normal mode after being re connected?
Can you help?
Blessings,
Douglas

SOURCE: Maytag Centennial Washer model MVWC6ESWW1

It sounds like this is a clutch and brake assembly problem. The clutch spring must provide the necessary pressure for the lining to turn with the hub and the clutch tab to push the brake cam driver and release the brake. The clutch spring of your washer must be weak or the clutch lining is worn causing it to slide and not release the brake. This prevents the tab that holds the clutch spring to force the brake cam driver, release the brake, and allow the basket to spin particularly when the machine is under load. This is manifested in the spinning of the drum when the machine is empty. The clutch and brake assemblies are located just below the tub and the excessive heat resulted from the friction between the clutch lining and the clutch hub.

Remove the thrust washer from the agitator shaft then remove the clutch and brake assembly from the top of the gearcase by removing the retaining clip using a screwdriver. Unsnap the clip and the clutch retaining ring the slide the clutch off the agitator shaft. Make sure to retain the washer located under the clutch.

Install the new clutch assembly on top of the gearcase then insert the clutch band and hold it in place. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, place the end caps on the clutch spring and compress to insert into the open end of the band. Release the tension on the spring and the band will stay in place the reinsert the retaining clip on top of the clutch.

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