When the cycle starts, the machine does its tumble, the door lock light goes off and then on, then the motor on top of the soap dispenser sends the marker up and down the dial, but instead of water coming through the dispenser and into the tub, the pump activates, then the remainder of the cycle continues without any water coming or any other tumbling. The last error code was 39 which suggests connection problems on the soap disp motor, but when I test the water coming in through the pre-wash chamber, etc, there seems to be no problem, Any clues?
SOURCE: GE frontload washer will not wash cycle or spin out
Thanks to Guest #2 our laundry is back in action and we're not waiting for a serviceperson. We took the front panel off, unscrewed the white plug and was sure our plastic drawer was open to catch the water, a load's worth. We found a small screw driver, 8 or so pony holders, some change, drill bits, bark, games pieces, can tops, etc... unbelievable. Thanks SO MUCH for the hint!
SOURCE: GE Profile Prodigy filled with water & won't start
If you don't hear a click when you close the lid, replace the lid switch.
SOURCE: GE Top-loader Leaks Water from Vert Tube Behind Tub on X-Large Loads
Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"
SOURCE: GE Top-loader Leaks Water from Vertical Tube Behind Tub on X-Large Loads
it sounds like the basket is not locked when it is agitating, if so the water will climb the wall during the wash cycle and leak out of the overflow (which is the plastic tube you described). if this is the case, it is a transmission brake problem. it can be fixed by a professional, but you might want to look into buying a new machine.
SOURCE: GE washer WBVH6240; Won't tumble or spin with any kind of load but works fine empty
Hai
Check This,I think this may helps You,
Recently, our front-loading GE WBVH6240 washing machine (essentially
the same as the GE WBVH6260 and GE WHDVH626) stopped pumping out water,
leaving the machine filled with soapy suds. Internet research showed
that the solution was to pop off the front panel, open a drain, and
then take apart the motor. Fixing it took much longer than it should
have, because we could not find any photos or clear instructions as to
where the screws and cleavage points were. Therefore, I'm posting some
instructions with photos, with due credit for the basic process to http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/1482-ge-front-load-washer-wont-drain.html
Oh, and by the way - ours came without any serial number or model
number label on the side or, for that matter, on the back. Shame on
Sears or GE - though we probably should have noted this when it was
first delivered. We got the model number by looking it up in the
manual, matching the drawing to the machine.
First, a word on the pump. This is a DP40-018 Hanning Elektro Werke
design - you won’t find that on the Internet easily. However, a search
led me to hanning.de, which sells this assembly under the Hanning DP40
label. I suspect you can find a reseller eventually, for the pump
itself; the rest of the assembly is unlikely to ever be damaged. The
pump is made in China but we’re assured of Quality German Supervision
(those of us who have relatives with Volkswagen and Mercedes cars are
no longer convinced that German Supervision and Quality belong in the
same sentence).
The working parts of the machine are accessible once you’ve removed
the front panel. Underneath the front of the machine, if you bend down
far enough, you can see three white-painted screws. Use a good,
standard Philips screwdriver on these (#2 in our case). Get a good
amount of pressure on the screws before turning because GE was foolish
enough to get paint into the working part of the screw (that is, the
cross-hatch), and you don't want to strip these. They are not that hard
to get out, but again, you don’t want to strip them. Take out the three
screws, pull off the panel, and you can see everything.
The pump is very close to you, on the right-hand side, right in
front. First, get a big bucket - preferably several - and open up the
drain valve (righty-tighty, left-loosey, so go LEFT, or
counter-clockwise, to open it). Gallons of water will shoot out along
with whatever rubbish is in the machine - pebbles from your young
child, emory boards from your wife (or from you), marbles, coin
batteries, lots of small change, etc. This in itself may solve your
problem! but we might as well check the pump.
The pump screws are invisible unless you've taken off the hoses from
the pump. There are two of these, and if you take them off before you
drain the tub, you will have pretty well damaged the inside of your
washer. Try to catch the water that comes out when you take off the
hoses. My system is to use a locking pliers (vise-grips) to compress
the two parts of the clip together - set the vise-grips so the two
parts of the clip will just about touch each other. That will give you
enough wiggle room to slide off the hose, gently, while holding the
clip loose. Do not let the clip come back together over the hose. Gently
open up the vise-grips once you're out of the washer and drop the clamp
somewhere. Remember which clamp belongs to which hose (there are two
hoses). Also remember which hose goes to which part of the pump. You
should really be writing this down or something as you go. Photos of
inside-the-washer are difficult to get.
Now, you should be able to see one of the screws. It's a bit of a job to get the screwdriver vertical over the screws, but you can do it. Do not try to hold the screwdriver at an angle; you really do not want to strip these screws
and you don’t have to. They are not in very tight, and should come
right out. One screw is pretty far to the left; the other is roughly in
the middle of the pump; they are both on the far side of the pump and screw it down to the floor of the washer. Don’t try for the screws that hold the two parts of the pump together. The pump includes the drain-pipe!
It’s all one assembly and it’s sold that way by Hanning. You can see it
in the illustration at the top of this page. The pump is held in place
by fairly firm supports that, when you look at it from the front of the
washer, are behind the pump/pipe assembly.
To get the wires off, -- remembering which side each color wire is
on! -- squeeze hard and pull carefully, working each terminal off, but
without using so much force that you might break something or, when it
releases, slam your hand into the sharp metal edge. Pull at the
terminal, not at the wire - you don't want to break these, either,
unless you like using solder guns in tight spots. Now you can gently
push the pump/pipe assembly back, so that the white stubs on the
drain-pipe clear the little rubber washer things, and when it’s free
carefully lift it out of the washer.
Okay, now the pump is out. First, find the three visible screws that
hold the motor to the pipe assembly (two of them are visible in the
first photo, partly unscrewed), get a laundry marker, and mark the
plastic where the screws go in so that when you re-assemble, you don’t
have to figure out which holes they go into. Then separate the two
parts of the pump - the motor and the rest of it - by undoing the three
screws. We kept using our #2 Philips but a #1 might fit better; the
screws came right out so it wasn’t an issue. And look what we found: a
safety pin blocking the impeller (the moving part) from moving! No
wonder the pump was warm. (If the pump is not warm, that indicates no
current reaching it. However, on this washer, the pump does tend to get
blocked more than anything else.)
A new pump will run you at least $170, probably more, from GE, so
it’s well worth taking it apart and fixing it yourself, especially with
service calls at $70 per hour.
I tried to get some of the lint out, with moderate success. This is
a badly sealed pump and frankly I'm not impressed by the filter design,
either. Someone got cheap in the engineering process and did not
consider that owners do not want to take their pumps out every two
years. Be careful with what you put into the machine!
When you re-assemble the pump, make sure you put the screws back into the holes that have threads.
Putting everything back was easy enough - be careful about pushing
the white stubs into the black washer things (for the drain-pipe), and
you may find the wires a little short, but it’s easier than getting it
out. I had a photo of what the pump looked like before I took it apart,
and now you do to, so you can easily put it back together the right
way. The hardest part of getting everything back together was wiping up
the water that spilled from the hose, and then getting the outer lid
back on without someone to hold it in place.
Thank You
70 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×