I can only fill my washer 1/2 full in order to get it to spin without wobbling. I need to know which part may be bad, the pads or the o rings I can't find on my service manual. The springs look good, the balance spring in back that attaches from the tub to the back plate fell off, so I put it back on but it still wobbles really bad.
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sounds like you have a bad spin bearing. If the unit is over 4 years old, might not be worth fixing. I recommend not using that unit till you have it fixed or get a new one.
I don't have experience with Kenmore top loaders and the tub is set-up quite differently from the machines i do work on. However, there are a whole bunch of videos on YouTube on machines just like yours. Find them here:
Based on the information you provided, you need to replace the wig wag on the unit. No joke, that is what the part is called. Here is a link to the part to order.
With the washer empty, spin the wash tub by hand. The drum should be spin true without any noticeable wobbling and spin without much noise. If it wobbles or makes any kind of rubbing or banging noise as you turn it by hand. The problem is that the spider support arms are broken. It is an expensive repair job since the washer has to be completely torn apart and the wash drum needs to be replaced. Get a few estimates before deciding whether to repair or replace. Sorry.
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
Also see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load washers. It has a troubleshooting section that describes the reasons for excessive walking or vibration.
WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS
If it's not the springs or pads, you may consider that the "Agitator Cams" in the transmission are not raising the Agitator Gear high enough (about 1/16" ) when the washer goes into spin mode.
See the description of what the Cams do in the Service Manual.
We had the same problem, excessive vibration and noise during the spin cycle.
In order to solve that problem, :
Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.
Pull the transmission.
Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.
Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.
Remove the transmission cover.
Pull off the spin pinion.
Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.
The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.
Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.
Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.
The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)
It sounds a bit complicated but it really isn't too bad and (For a $15 part, saved buying a $170 transmission.)
Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same part numbers.
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Two things to check are the Basket Drive Block and the Brake and Drive Tube.
The clutch on the transmission drives the Brake and Drive Tube when in spin mode, the Basket Drive Block transmits the spinning of the Drive tube to the tub.
See the following description of how to pull the cabinet, agitators, drive block and drive tube.
As an aside, you don't need to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the Drive Block Basket Lock Nut. I found that by using a short 10" pipe wrench, opened all the way and hooked over one of the tabs on the nut, and giving it a short whack with a hammer, the nut will come loose.
Check that the basket drive block fits on the drive tube with the two tabs on the drive tube fitted into the slots in the drive block.
ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.
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