If any of those 3 resistors got open or change value reading..Please check the H-out transistor the one that near the ply-back and power transistor if shorted..if you found any shorted transistors you can replace it only with the same type,rating and value..also replace the open fuseble resistor if any..
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Ceramic types are often found at the low range of capacitive values and electrolytic types are are the high end of capacitive values. Ceramic and electrolytic caps do certain jobs better when of one design instead of the other. The capacitive values may be the same, but there are other qualities that don't get printed on the part. One of the most noticeable differences is that electrolytic types don't do a very good job passing radio frequencies (RF). You'll often see several ceramic types in parallel (if needed) to get the correct amount of capacitance when a single electrolytic would appear to do the job in an circuit where the frequency is in the RF range. Audio Frequencies (AF) on the other hand are significantly lower and do not pose the same problem. There are other types of caps and they each have situations where they would do the best job.
In short, the developer / manufacturer selects all the parts based on a wide range of variables he needs to control based on design and testing. You should always replace components with like components, otherwise you risk adverse reaction(s) from one of those variables that had originally been contained.
Click the link below for some basic info about caps:
,and the AC adapter producing 19 Volts, with no fluctuation on the multimeter, when you wiggle the power cord TO AC adapter, and cable from AC adapter to DC Power Jack;
The problem is Power MOSFETs in the motherboard power section, and/or ceramic capacitors. (MLCC ceramic capacitors)
The X4701 may be a Macom RF Power MOSFET, and will probably be located close to the X4701 designation, silkscreened on the motherboard. Doesn't EVEN look like a fuse.
Under the large main views are small views. The view to the far left is the Bottom side. The third view from the Left is the Top side.
You have to click on each one, one at a time, then you can use the Zoom In feature for that view. Using the Zoom feature, can you try to point out the electronic component?
Use a reference point we can both follow. State a known large component near it, and go from there.
You know what the processor socket, and graphics chipset is. They are covered by the Cooling Tube. You know what Power MOSFETs look like now, and Ceramic Capacitors. The small aluminum 'can's that have a purple mark on one side, are solid Polymer capacitors. (Doubt they are Tantalum)
Also, I realize that it gives one a sense of pride to repair a motherboard, and the cost of the electronic components are MUCH cheaper than buying a replacement motherboard, but a replacement may be the way to go.
(Fairchild Semiconductor International - FDS6679 - Power MOSFET is around $1. Ceramic capacitors, (MLCC, and SMD), are around 60 to 82 cents. From the Ebay link it looks like $39 to replace the motherboard)
Capacitor failure? Ehh. No problem if we're talking SMD MLCC ceramic capacitors.
Diode goes bad? Could led to power going to the wrong place, and other electronic components could have been affected. Could be bad, or about to go bad. Jus sayin'.
This would mean motherboard replacement is the more logical solution, IMHO. Post back in a Comment.
Means to me that the old DC Power Jack, may have been removed from the DC Power Harness, and the $3 DC Power Jack soldered on.
1) Both red wires, (2 - Power), and black wires (2 - Ground) were used? 2) Are you sure the solder joints are good? Not cold solder joints?
3) The DC Power Harness cable is plugged in tightly to the motherboard? 4) Was a continuity test done with a multimeter, of the DC Power Harness itself after the new jack was installed?
Just to get the obvious out of the way;
5) AC adapter (Charger) was tested? Center hole is Positive, outside cylindrical metal shell is Negative. DC Voltage scale. Looking for 19 Volts (DC)
6) You FOLLOWED Anti-Static Precautions? What method did you use?
AC adapter checks out, modified DC Power Harness checks out, the problem is in the power section on the motherboard.
Power MOSFET's determine if the Battery needs a trickle charge, full charge, or no charge at all. Also determines if the laptop is to just run off of the Battery, or AC adapter.
Check the motherboard near the area the DC Power Harness plugs in, for burned, blackened, or blistered Power MOSFET's. Using HP Pavilion dv6000 series, and Pavilion dv9000 series Notebook PC's, as an example,
On the Mayohardware blog also look at the second photo down, with the Alpha and Omega Semiconductor - AO4407 - Power MOSFET, circled in Yellow. Click on the photo.
Look to the right of the AO4407. The small rectangular shape to the right, with the dark wide band on it is a Ceramic Capacitor. There is one above it, one above that one, and one to the right. Just some of the ceramic capacitors.
Need to pay close attention to the ones in the area immediately surrounding the Power MOSFET's, in the power section. See if any are burned, blackened, or blistered.
[ ......game out of the cdrom that was jammed in upside down? I would have removed the one Philips head screw from the bottom of the laptop, slid the optical drive ('cdrom') out, and removed the small screws from it's cover, then removed the disk.
The subwoofer for that system also powers the rest of the speakers as well as the subwoofer as you probably know. Is there any power light coming on? Like on the subwoofer itself where ever the power light is. If not check for a fuse. If no fuse is visable you'll have to take the subwoofer apart, the plate amplifire. There will be screws all around the metal part on the back, you must remove all the screws holding it together. Most of these types of systems have the fuse inside on the board. Also sometimes the fuse does'nt look like a fuse, it could look like a resistor or a ceramic style disk capacitor. Yours will probably have a glass type fuse. If you don't see one look on the board next to the components on the power supply board or if all together look near the transformer area for a F meaning a fuse. /there will be letters and numbers next to each component eg., resistor, capacitor, diode, etc. If you find a glass type fuse replace it with the exact same rating which will be on the end of the fuse on the silver ends of the fuse. If it's not blown you'll need to test to see if your getting voltge out of the transformer. You'll have to have the DVD unit hooked up to it, you don't have to have any speakers connected. The cable from the DVD unit to the subwoofer is what tells the amplifire on the subwoofer to turn on. You could have a blown amplifire IC. I don't know what type of ouput amplifires this uses but I'm thinking IC and not seperate transistors for the output amplifires. You might have one of those blown and if you do then the whole system wont work. Hopefully if that is the problem you'll see a burnt mark on the IIC itsel or some type of burnt spot on the board somewhere to lead you in the right direction to the problem. It could be as simple as a power supply capacitor, who knows til you get into it and start looking around and testing some things. If you don't have the knowledge to do this I am the cheapest electronics business in the USA. It's not a bad system, CrutchField sales it. Also I can waalk you through the steps to narrow the problem down. I help people everyday. You can contact me at [email protected]. I can then give you some more info and my business phone number if you feel up to doing this. It's really no big deal and I find that most of my customers who have never done something like this love and learn some electronics and now fix some other stuff they had laying around. I'm here to help. Thank you for contacting me, have a good day.
I would suggest taking off the back panel to expose the circuit boards. The board that the power connector is on is your power distribution board. Look there for radial capacitors (if you don't know what they are google images is your friend). They should be flat topped. If you see any with bulging tops and brown liquid (electrolyte) seeping from the tops they are (at least part of) the problem. As a side note Radial Capacitors don't always give from the top, sometimes the will bulge and / or leak from the bottom and you'll have to look under them. Best thing to do is remove all the wires connecting to the Power board and inspect it very thoroughly (perhaps with the use of a magnifying glass). If you find any bad capacitors (also look under aluminum heatsinks (sometimes they hide them under those) you'll need to replace them, this isn't hard to do actually, watch some youtube videos if you have little/no experience with soldering on circuit boards. You will need a tool to remove the existing solder connection (I use a soldapullt) a decent (35watt or better) soldering iron, some flux (I like to use the flux pen) and some lead-free solder. Order the replacement capacitors (I use newark.com as they have an extremely wide selection) you will need the "uF" or microfarad and voltage spec off the capacitor and also pay close attention to the size of the bad capacitors and order the same size - if you don't it could present a problem with putting your tv back together. If you found no bad caps, look on the power board for a glass or ceramic cylindrical fuse. Those can go bad as well.
You don't need to use a ceramic fuse if one's not available. You can also use a glass cartridge fuse as well. Just be sure the rating is the same. Be aware, though, that fuses seldom blow on their own. Usually it's because something else has shorted. So don't be surprised if replacing the fuse only results in another blown fuse. Behringer stuff is notoriously cheap and under-protected, so by the time the fuse blows it's usually more trouble than it's worth trying to fix. But maybe you'll be lucky and it will be something simple. Good luck, and thanks for using Fixya!
Test the fuses using a fuse tester, if you don't have one then use a flashlight and some wires,
connect the light in series with the fuse and the batteryfor the light if it turns on the fuse is good if not then it is blown and should be replaced.
What was the previous problem and solution? is this a different problem than before?
Sounds to me like power isnt getting to the components.. at least to operational voltage where it will illuminate the pdp modual.(screen)
To fix this alot of troubleshooting is required because of the various things that can cause this.
Knowing plasma's pretty well , i am prone to blame this on heat. The lack of engineering prowess has flooded the market with disposable junk without any cooling whatsoever..i can heat a room with my plasma.
So lets see here.. power board could have blown a fuse, a peko hardwired fuse but this will cut all power to the rest of the set. Do you get sound? do you get a series of blinks from the tv's front panel? if so count them..its a error code... if you dont even get power lights..you pwb ( power supply) is dead.. either the secondary side or primary of the board..it has 2 phases to it. primare and secondary.
if the tv doesnt even fire and its completely dead...pwb.
need to know what functions the tv can do right now.
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