Kenmore 90 plus series washer won't spin, barely agitates, will drain - but makes loud noise

SOURCE: My Capacity Plus Admiral Washer will spin and agitate, but it makes a loud grinding noise.

Well, Sounds to me like the Bearings are going out, but it could make that noise a good while, before it goes completely out.. Replacement would possably be more cost effective, Kinda hard to beleive !!!!!!

SOURCE: Kenmore 90 series 11026912690, agitator makes loud noise

If the problem is just the agitator not working, but everything else does, you may just have a worn agitator cam assembly, worn agitator dogs, loose agitator bolt, or all of the above. The following link explains what agitator dogs are and how to access them:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608577-replacing_agitator_dogs

Whirlpool manufactured washers (such as Kenmore) use a split agitator design. The top half is known as the "auger, while the lower half is the agitator. Between the two pieces is a cam assembly, with small teflon teeth known as "dogs". There's also an agitator bolt that holds the entire assembly to the center post.

If the auger (top half of the agitator) is slipping, I would suspect the dogs or cam assembly need to be replaced. The part number for the dogs is included in the link I provided. For a little more you can purchase the entire cam assembly which includes the dogs, the cam, the cam seal and thrust bearing.

If the entire agitator appears loose or slipping, check the agitator bolt to ensure it is tight. DO NOT overtighten as this can restrict movement of the agitator or damage it. Tighten until snug.


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I listed also include helpful exploded view parts diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the parts you need. If you do not wish to order parts on line, use the part numbers from the Sears website and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. These parts are commonly sold as part of their in-store inventory.


NOTE: Other causes can include a broken motor coupling, bad gearcase (transmission), or worn clutch assembly. It does not sound like the problem is associated with any of these components however.

If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would not spin at all (whether you held the agitator or not), but would still have the ability to drain.

If the gearcase (transmission) were bad, the washer would either not spin, or may spin with assistance (meaning, if you gave the drum a spin by hand to get it started).

If the clutch were bad, the symptoms would be similiar to that of the gearcase and the tub would probably also have problems stopping.

This problem sounds like it may only be associated with an agitator that could be loose, causing an off balance tub. Read through the information provided and let me know if you have any questions. I hope this is helpful to you.

SOURCE: kenmore 90 series loud whirring/howling noise during spin cycle

Sounds like you have a broken motor coupler. They are inexpensive. Can be a little tough to replace but I can walk you through it. You can purchase a coupler here.
http://www.shop.washermd.com/product.sc?categoryId=1&productId=1
Dave

SOURCE: won't spin or rinse, took clothes out .... too heavy maybe??

you have a bad lid switch,you can by pass it,remove the switch,put the pos.neg. together with wire nut and your finished-mike

SOURCE: series 90 Kenmore washes but won't rinse or spin

A washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know. If my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can assist you further. If your washer is not configured this way, or if you still have questions, please let me know.