Kenmore HE4t 3.8 Cu. Ft. King Size Capacity Plus Front Load Washer Logo
Kitty Posted on Aug 21, 2012

Kenmore Elite HE4T standing water - Kenmore HE4t 3.8 Cu. Ft. King Size Capacity Plus Front Load Washer

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Jeffrey Wong

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  • Posted on Oct 28, 2013
Jeffrey Wong
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I also have standing water after a wash cycle, but not immediately after. Given the history of very expensive repairs to this Kenmore HE4T washing machine, I suggest you do what I do, if the machine is still cleaning the clothes. Whatever cycle you use, try to be around when the machine finishes, so that you can turn off the water supply and remove the damp clothes to the dryer or clothes line. Turn on the water supply only when you want to use the machine. This works for me because I don't do many loads per week and my laundry area is right next to my kitchen. If it was in my basement, I'd have replaced it already with a top loading machine with mechanical not electronic controls.

  • Kitty Jul 19, 2014

    I just wanted to update this. If the Kenmore Elite HE4T washing machine has standing water in it after the cycle has finished (and the clothes had been spun completely), then it is the water inlet valve. It can eventually have a small leak, and then the water will fill back up inside the drain. This can be a really big issue if you are gone for a long time, come home and open the washer door. Water will flood your house. I replaced the water inlet valve and problem solved!

  • Kitty Jul 19, 2014

    I meant, fill back up inside the drum, not drain.

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Anonymous

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  • Posted on Jan 10, 2013

SOURCE: Replacing the Door Bellow on Kenmore Elite Front Loaders

Hi. Open up the back of the dryer after unplugging it. Take a deep breath. This is not that hard. A dryer is a very simple thing but you need to relax and figure out what the parts are. A dryer has a very basic parts list. The obvious I will not go into with but here goes with the electrical in the guts of the machine. A motor to turn the drum. A heating element. A sensor to sense high temps for safety shutoff of the element. A blower for air. Keep in mind as you look at this that usually power wires are black or red. You will see some wires that are attached to a sensor and then on to the heating elements. Take a test light or volt ohm meter and see if the high temp limit sensor is bad. This can be a simple ten dollar one from Radio Shack. That is, it will it get continuity through it. You may have to detach the wires on this sensor to do this test. The sensor is usually a flattened round disc with two leads coming out of it. Test the element same as the sensor. Take the part where there is no continuity through them to the appliance parts store with the model and serial number of the dryer for appropriate parts. Maybe ten bucks. I know it sounds scary but you may learn something and if all else fails just pickup the phone and call the repairman. Hope this helps.
good luck
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