Model number: FGHG2344MF6 Both temperature displays are blinking, and the high temperature alert is active. Prior to this, the temperature was decreasing (as we had set for it to do), and the problem began when the freezer hit 27 F. Now there is no movement in the temperature, and sometimes it is increasing. Now the temp is at 67 for the fridge and 40 for the freezer. Thanks!
Make sure the internal vent is not blocked with ice.
SOURCE: fridge broken, freezer is temp. that fridge should
Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . ( If you notice your compressor is not running before unplugguing the blue plug , then jump wire1 to wire3 to see if the compressor runs . If so , then the main control board is bad . Plug the refrig back in to see if compressor starts with the jumper wire in place , ) . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10101 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to selected temperature .
SOURCE: Digital display is blank in GE Profile fridge
Hi. Its either a bad motherboard or control board. I would check the control board for any obvious signs of damage to the board first. I've seen the control board go blank on the GE side by side and it turned out to be the motherboard. The motherboard is located behind a cover on the back of your refrigerator cabinet. You should have a new motherboard on hand at all times because they fail alot. Be sure to put a surge protector on your refrigerator. Good Luck, Mack
SOURCE: Samsung twin cooling fridge/freezer model
My husband removed the covers inside the fridge which contain the lights and the cooling fan. The problem was the icing up of the cooling fan (which circulates the cold air) preventing it from rotating also the drain hole at the bottom of the fan was also iced up.
The fridge was switched off at the wall socket whilst working on it. After removing the panel containing the fan and unplugging the connection take the panel outside. A hair dryer was used to thaw out the ice. The drain hole was made slightly bigger to hopefully prevent this happening again.
When panel is screwed back in fridge make sure the black sealing tape is in position also take care not to damage cooling pipes which are attached to the evaporator unit. Defrosting a couple of times a year might prevent this happening again. It seems to be a design problem which im sure the makers will be aware of and modify future appliances. Q Will the makers repair this problem free of charge even if the warranty has expired !?
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite bottom freezer refridgerator
I just went through this with my refridgerator and actually posted one of the questions. Here is what I found ........
In the freezer compartment behind the panel there is an evaporator fan which pulls cold air from the freezer and pushes it up into the refrridgerator compartment. If the fan is not working it is one of three things.. 1) there is so much frost in the fan area the fan blade is stopped and cannot push the cold air into the refridgerator compartment or the air channel is blocked. 2) there is no electricity going to the fan (usually tied to the door switch of the refirdgerator compartment, and 3) the motor is dead and will have to be replaced.
Solution to #1 - defrost but there is another problem in the "frost-free" part of the system which must be addressed or the frost will return and it will happen again in the future.
Solution #2 - check to see there is power to the fan. (most are 110VAC but some are 100VDC. Use a meter and check)
Solution #3 - If there is power, the motor is dead. Replace the motor. Be aware that AC and DC motors are different and replace per manufacture's specifications.
SOURCE: I have a ten year old Sub-Zero 650. The
Look on your sub zero for more model numbers. I have found some information indicating that the refrigerator thermostat may be the problem but need those numbers to confirm. Thanks, Sea Breeze
You can also find a user manual at this link
http://safemanuals.com/zearchres_663.php
http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/
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The sound is very loud and we have turned off the fridge due to that. Temperature was climbing prior to our turning it off.
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