We got this TV a couple of years ago, but about one month out of warranty, the picture suddenly went out while I was watching it. it does turn on, as the power LED at the bottom shows, but it has no picture or sound. There is some kind of glow behind the screen, but not like you would see if the TV was working. The LCD doesn't appear to have anything going on in it. I've tried the reset suggestion that I've seen elsewhere, so my thinking is that some part has just gone bad inside. Does this sound like a part I could just order and replace myself? Thanks!
Back - light problem. Check and replace damaged component/s at its back-light inverter board, or replace this board as card basis. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. It will be best to replace the inverter board as card basis.
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
To some model sets; especially LED back-lighted types; the back-light inverter circuit will be part of the main power supply board [SMPS]. In such cases, the power supply board might need replacement. To some models sets, the back-light inverter and SMPS section circuit will be integrated at its main board itself. If so; the main board should be replaced. To some models of sets, all these section circuit will be integrated at its main board. If this is the case, you have to replace the main board.
SOURCE: Sharp aquos lcd screen goes blank
i was having these same problems with the screen going black, and i found that when i hit the back of my tv it would work sometimes. so, i improvised on some of the advice on this page and so far no problems. here is what i did (its very easy):
1. lay the tv on the floor and take off the back panel. (i think 12 screws)
2. on the right side of the tv (as you are looking at the back) you will notice a large metal covering that is held in place by 6 screws. unscrew these and remove the metal cover.
3. you will notice that the three screw holes on the left side of the board have some sort of metal or solder around them, in sort of a star pattern. when i looked closely i noticed that most of the metal (solder) was tarnished, or kind of blackened. (this must mean that the ground screws werent getting a good connection and this would explain why it would work sometimes when i hit it because it would vibrate the screws enough to get a good connection! )
so, take a pencil eraser and erase all the black or tarnish off the metal surrounding the screw holes. thats it! (to be safe i took some sandpaper and cleaned up the screw holes on the back of the metal covering, but i dont know if that was necessary)
at this point i followed another gentleman's advice to do a hard reset. this involved unplugging the 8 connections although i dont know if this was really necessary because i believe my problem was a ground issue. i did it just to be safe. his advice is on this site if you want to do this step.
4. i put everything back together and it worked! i performed a soft reset at this point which puts your tv back to factory settings. just go to menu>setup>reset>return to factory settings? yes
this will turn your tv off and back on. that's it. so far so good for me.
SOURCE: My 37" sharp aquos LCD TV sound shuts off
Almost all intermittent audio or audio failure problems with Sharp Aquos LC**D4U, LC**D5U, LC**D6U, and LC**D7U televisions are the result of a relatively simple design flaw involving the heatsink pad compound used on the Tripath TA-2024 amplifier chip (IC2502) found on the A/V board. This compound has a fairly low melting point and, over time, tends to seep out from between both top and bottom heatsinks onto the legs of this chip as well as onto circuitry immediately surrounding it. Further, over time the seeping compound also becomes somewhat conductive creating bridges which short the audio amplifier circuit causing everything from intermittent audio to complete audio failure.
Fortunately, in almost every case audio can be completely restored by cleaning the old compound from both top/bottom heatsinks and from both sides of the PC board in the area immediately surrounding the chip (I used rubbing alcohol which worked quite well). Sharp has issued a service bulletin addressing this issue (LCDTV-194) wherein a ‘2502 Heat Kit’ is specified. This kit is Sharp Part Number: PSPKIT663WJZZ and is available from circuitcity.partsearch.com for $19.95. However, it’s entirely possible to get by with the heat pad only, Sharp Part Number: PSPAZA663WJKZ for only $9.95. Please note that board replacement for this problem is almost never necessary, so if you’re working with a repair technician be sure and insist that he/she be certain to try cleaning the old board and replacing the aforementioned heatsink pads before charging you for a new board.
If one is reasonably familiar with electronics disassembly/reassembly and is willing to take their time, this can even be a DIY project. It is possible to find ‘important service references’ by simply entering LC26D4U (the 5, 6, and 7 series are very similar, and this information covers all screen sizes) into the search field at eserviceinfo.com. This will greatly aid in disassembly/reassembly of the TV, as the A/V board is somewhat ‘buried’ under other boards. Please refer to post # 373 at avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=647174&page=13 for pics of the information detailed here.
My knowledge of how to solve this issue came primarily from finding the research efforts of ‘Aureius’ on the AVS forums, and particularly from his taking the time to post the solution publicly so that others might save time, money, and aggravation. I'm just passing along the information. Thanks Andy!
I also wanted to mention that a couple of other very pesky common problems with these series of Sharp TV's involving symptoms of random powering-off and/or powering-on, and 'function lock-ups' of various sorts are easily remedied through two firmware updates (Main CPU: PH1UU112, Monitor: MD1UA104). These are not available to end-users via the internet but it may be possible to get the files from an understanding factory-authorized repair tech. They are installed using an SD memory card (don't use the HC high capacity sort, use only those that are NOT HC) which is inserted into a special slot in the back of the machine. For those of the DIY persuasion, information about how to check whether your TV has old firmware in need of an upgrade is readily available through internet search.
SOURCE: Sharp 52" Aquos LCD Will Not Turn ON-Blinking LEDs
I had a similar problem. Fleeting video, then audio only for few seconds and then nothing except the green power LED blinking on and off.
I changed the power inverter board, backlight inverter boards and power supply board but still the problem is not gone.
Just 18 month old TV and out of warranty.
SOURCE: sharp aquos 32" LCD tv - screen black (no picture) but have sound
Typically if you have a backlight and no video image it's going to be the T-Con board. We do know it's most likely not the powersupply board because the back light comes on. Could also possibly be the main board, but typically the T-con boards are cheaper and I'd say you got a 70% chance that's the issue. Good luck.
SOURCE: I have a Sharp LC-32D44E LCD TV. Purchased Oct
If the red light stays on and the tv does not react to any input from buttons or remote... the problem is one 7 pins integrated circuit on the upper side of the power board .the ic is situated on the right side of the power socket .It costs about 2$ and can be replaced by someone with mimimal electronics skills and a 30w solder iron .
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