Electrolux Kenmore 3.5 cu. ft. I.E.C. High-Efficiency Front Load Washer / Dryer Logo

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Posted on Sep 20, 2012

Kenmore 4810 Front Load will not drain or spin

The machine will not drain and the spinning stops. It is making a noise like it is trying to move but can't then it smells like something might be getting hot. Don't know what to do.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 117 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 20, 2009

SOURCE: Stops at spin cycle

Open the lid to the washer and let it down gently. You should hear a click when the lid closes. If you don't hear it, the lid switch might be faulty and this will prevent the washer from going into spin. Not an expensive repair.
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Anonymous

  • 27 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 19, 2009

SOURCE: Model EWF1087 washing machine will not spin or

your pump impeller is blocked or fouling on something inside the filter compartment,turn machine off unscrew fiter (be prepared for water to come out),then get a long screwdriver and turn the impeller anything caught in there will free itself up,and you should be able to mremove forieghn object if impeller doesnt turn then it more than likely your pump is seized and will need replacing hope this helps.

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 22, 2010

SOURCE: 2009 Frontloading Electrolux washer door will not open!

When this happened in our home, we unplugged the machine, waited then plugged it in again. This reset the machine and the door immediately unlocked

Anonymous

  • 15935 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 30, 2010

SOURCE: My Kenmore 48102 washer is leaking from the bottom

1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




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ZJLimited

ZJ Limited

  • 17989 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 18, 2011

SOURCE: Electrolux front load washer door won't

First try to reset the lock unplugged the power machine for a few (10) minutes (maybe release the interlock door switch). If this work, them its possible that you need door latch replacement.

To do it, turn off power, unplug at the mains. Drag the machine out so you can see the back. Remove the 2 screws that hold the top on, pull back or tap the top forward (depending on the model) to unclip it. Peer inside. You will see the door switch inside the chassis exactly in line with the door handle on the outside. See if you manually make the mechanism release, or if you have a stubby philips screwdriver, you can probably unscrew the switch complely.

Keep us updated.

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It has stopped spinning. Still makes a noise that

sounds like the motor coupling has broken,anytime a washer gets out of balance it usually breaks the coupling!
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