The clothes are still very wet at end of wash cycle. Ran a diagnostic and everything checked out fine. The machine still will not do high speed spin during wash cycle. also at end of diagnostic there was a temperature reading of 27 degrees. what does all this mean?
This is a common problem with the Whirlpool front load machine. The motor control board goes out but the new ones have been redesigned. You will need to replace the control board. Here is a link to the control board you need.
SOURCE: Loud clanking noise during spin cycle. Will not
Some of the support items for the drum (springs / shocks) may have worn out have partially failed. Front loaders usually have both items with springs on top and shocks on bottom.Open access panels front and top, check for worn/missing/broken springs and shocks that might be leaking fluid. Replace as needed.
SOURCE: loud noise at end of spin cycle
The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.
SOURCE: Whirlpool top Loading washing machine won't spin on spin cycle
If the washer won't finish a spin cycle, it probably means that your timer went bad or stalled. You can take the control panel off and look at the contacts for scorching or corrosion.
SOURCE: excess water in clothes after spin cycle
Unblock the outflow pipe from the machine that goes into the sump under the sink. (have a pot ready for water overflow) This will help drain the water. If the spin cycle is making a screetching sort of noise then it is possible that the carbon brushes will need changing. This affects the spinning if the brushes are worn.
SOURCE: washing machine does not drain during rinse cycle?
Turn timer to rinse cycle. let fill up and agitate. when it stops
agitating it should pause then start to pump water out. After about 2
minutes it should pause for 3-5 seconds then start again and spin. If
it starts the first time and never stops it will just continue to pump
but no spin. The 3-5 second pause allows the transmission to shift to
spin. If it does not do this the problem is your timer. You may need to
do this a few times to verify the problem.
If that is not the problem it is likely that you need a new clutch. You will need a technician to install a new clutch for you
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