Top-loading, direct drive Kenmore model won't do spin cycle

if it agitates correctly,then its likely your lid safety switch, agitate and spin cycles are reversed by the motor during the cycles of agitate and spin,some units are wired to not operate on either agitate or spin,but some will operate on agitate with the lid open,but not on spin,open control panel and bypass the lid switch and this will tell you before you tear out the direct drive pump,motor and get to the d.d. coupler at the transmission

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Two possibilities:


Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

If this is a basic top load, direct drive washer, luckily most mechanical parts are relatively easy to access and fix or replace. I'd hold off looking for a new washer until I checked the Lid Switch and Coupler. These are the two parts that tend to break on top load washers.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

I'd verify that the Motor Coupler is installed correctly first.

I'd also verify that the Lid Switch was re-connected after replacing the coupler. (A common oops that I've done myself)

If it was, I'd test the Lid Switch by jumping the two outermost contacts with a short piece of insulated wire.

See the Whirlpool Service manual for their top load, direct drive washers for how to bypass the switch.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

LID SWITCH OR COUPLER:

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.20952992&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Two possibilities:

The first thing to check is the Lid Switch.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning. The "clicking may be the plastic prongs hitting each other.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Following is the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load, direct drive washers with a troubleshooting section.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


The first thing to check is to try the washer on a different cycle.

Then make sure that it will drain and spin.

If it will work on a different cycle, the problem points to the timer.

If it still won't agitate and it WON'T drain or spin the problem points to the Lid Switch

If it will neither agitate, or spin but will drain, the problem points to the Motor Coupler.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.23912100

Also see the Whirlpool (Kenmore) Service Manual for top load, direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


The first thing I'd try is using a different cycle. If the washer works as it should, the problem points to the timer.

I'd also check to make sure that when replacing the switch, the connections to the timer haven't come loose.

Since you've replaced the Lid Switch, the motor has power for the drain and spin cycles.

These washers use a reversing motor. The motor turns one way for agitating and reverses for the drain and spin.

Since you cannot hear anything when it is supposed to be agitating, the problem does point to the timer or motor.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers. See the section on how to bypass the lid switch and on the transmission.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Following is an illustrated description of how to remove the cabinet on Kenmore / Whirlpool top load direct drive washers.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Since it won't drain, the problem points to the lid switch. You already have the cabinet off so replacing the switch isn't too difficult.
The Sears site has the Sears (and probably Whirlpool) part number.

Assuming that this is the basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain two piece agitator model.

There is a Sears repair parts site:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and a list of major sub-components will come up.

Since it isn't agitating (I assume not at all rather than just the top part of the agitator. If just the top part isn't turning then the easiest solution is replacing the 4 "agitator dogs" ) or spinning the solution points to a couple of places.

1. The motor coupler may be broken. This piece is a fail safe between the motor and transmission. and basically transmits power to the transmission.

Remove the cabinet and inspect the coupler. Following is a good description of how to replace it if necessary.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

The coupler consists of three pieces. Two plastic pieces with three prongs each that fit on the shafts of the motor and transmission and a rubber piece with six holes that the plastic prongs fit into.

If the prongs are broken off, or the rubber piece is broken, the motor cannot apply power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

If the coupler is OK, the problem points to the motor or transmission.

If you move the timer to the spin cycle, and the machine drains the water , the motor is probably OK.

I'd also check the Lid Switch that prevents the motor from turning in the spin cycle.

Following is a Whirlpool PDf on how top load, direct drive washers work with a troubleshooting guide and description of how to bypass the LID Switch.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=3437.0
Yes, you have a direct drive coupling problem. Use this video to replace your part.
EZPZ.

If it agitates fine , with normal noise , drains with lid closed , then the problem is probably the transmission .