A short while after power up there is a cracking or popping sound on left channel. Right channel is fine. Music can be heard on both channels. Sometimes when switching on all input green leds flash on and off and it takes seversl on-off cycles for the amp to switch on normaly.
Sometimes you can find the faulty part by touching the parts inside the amp. Only touch the plastic parts not any metal parts! As it is on one channel you have a good channel to compare the bad. Often small transitors can become noisy so start with them!
SOURCE: NAD C370 Right channel distortion
Sounds like you have lost the power amp transistor(s) or IC for this channel.
SOURCE: NAD C340 has lost ability to switch between inputs
I have the same problem which started about a month ago and seems to be getting worse. I also noticed today, that 1 channel is significantly louder than the other - fault in the pre-amp stage, as feeding the power stage directly gives balanced, albeit extremely loud sound! Looking on eBay, I found someone else selling an amp with both problems. It would nice to think that NAD would acknowledge a design flaw, and fix for free, but my amp is 5 year old.
SOURCE: Bryston 4b amp, left channel blows the back panel
I would check out whatever drives the left channel first. If it is a transistor, you can put a ohm meter on the terminals and see if it shows a short (amp turned off). If there are two transistors for the left channel, and you find a short on one only, replace the other to be on the safe side.
SOURCE: NAD 302 PHONO STAGE
Reverse your RCA input around and see if the problem follows, this will determine if the problem is in the turntable output signal or the preampsection of your amp. If it stays on the same channel, slightly move the RCA that's dropping out signal around. If the signal cuts in and out, you know it's just a weak solder joint on the input rca of the amp. If it does not change, your problem is deeper. Chances are it's a "cold solder joint" on the input section of the amp and would only be a labor type repair and no parts involved. That can be a double edged sword as well depending on how long it takes to find it. If you have to have it serviced, find a local shop that's been around a while, they are likely to be a little more insightful as to the exact problem quicker. Hope this helps
SOURCE: When i am turning the power on at. channel 1 for a
Pictures would help a lot (of the circuit board)
You're lucky, you have a whole channel for reference!
This means we can troubleshoot by metering points at channel A and cross referencing them with what's happening on channel B (You'll need a multimeter and SOME skill, as well as a soldering iron, solder, desoldering braid and/or a desoldering pump)
When we find something that's way out of spec, we know we've found the issue, or at least something connected to the issue.
If you have an oscilloscope, we can trace the signal to the point that it stops.
If not, as I said, metering mirrored points should lead to the issue.
It sounds like you're guessing.
Have you looked at the manual?
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Removing the links at rear (Pre-amp to Main amp links) does not remove the crackling noise. The noise is also present regardless of volume setting
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