I have a maytag neptune fav6800aww I just replaced the clutch now it will only spins counter clockwise

SOURCE: doesnt agitate and there is a gronding noise during wash and spin

A common problem with noises from washing machines has been the under wire that may come out of small clothes. In the washer they can get stuck in one of the inner basket holes and make a scrapping noise, they can actually make there way into the pump and jam the pump, or make a terrible noise when the pump is running. Grab a flash light and have a peek inside the washer for this. Front load washers seem very common to this happen! If the tiny cloth  is showing signs of fraying, may be best not to wash it in the washing machine, replace the cloth.


Maytag Dependable care washer.....Locate a 1/4 inch screw on the side of the agitator, ( about 3/4 of the way down) remove this screw and lift up on the agitator...picture.
 
Maytag Atlantis, Norge, Performa by Maytag.....Remove the cap and softener dispenser by pulling it off and locate the agitator bolt, remove bolt and lift up on the agitator...picture.


Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.
Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.
A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ):
~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.
~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged.  Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.
~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.
 

SOURCE: how to get front panel off neptune fav6800aww washing machine

Just a quick search in this forum fot "Front Panel" returned this post which says it better then I could.

http://www.fixya.com/support/t538238-remove_front_panel

SOURCE: maytag neptune fav6800aww wont spin on rinse cycle

With this post I’m attempting to enhance the troubleshooting process regarding dc/UC errors in Spin Cycle associated with the FAV6800A machine. The troubleshooting steps are more to help DIY owners but it could be good info. for other owners to pass along to their appliance repair service if you go forward with a repair. I’m a DIY’er who refused to junk my machine as long as parts cost did not trigger a replacement decision and I have some basic mechanical skills. What I have learned about these fail codes, dc/UC in Spin Cycle is…. this is a chronic failure condition associated with the FAV6800A series machine (no brainer per numerous posts in this forum) and I feel that most of the time these codes are associated with a clutch malfunction.
The troubleshooting guide packed in the console of your machine makes reference to this issue in the Will Not Spin section of the guide and states to replace the clutch. I re-lubed my clutch with WD-40 and I have been working with 30+ loads of varying size with no Spin Cycle errors since early December 08. I and two other DIY forum members found this issue to be a maintenance issue with the clutch, no out of pocket cost for me and I’m sure under $5 for the other two forum members, I had a can of WD-40 in the house. See the links I have attached within this post. There is a description of the clutch removal I did in those posts. I hope this works for others; I’m sure many of these machines head to the curb for bulk trash pickup. Maybe you can extend the service life of your $1K machine if this proves to be a clutch re-lube fix for this issue. Shame on Maytag for not placing a quality sealed bearing in the clutch…. my opinion.
1. Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. Raise the top of the machine to observe the wash basket and tumbler action described in step 2...

2. With the top raised start a Spin Only cycle with no clothes in the wash basket, observe the wash basket it will begin to rotate CCW. Watch the tumblers, they should not rotate in spin cycle (maybe ½ turn at the start of spin cycle and that’s all). If the tumblers rotate while the wash basket is rotating you have a clutch malfunction and the Spin Cycle will fail with dc/UC errors. If this is not the situation move on to step 3. I need to post step 3 and the rest of this post in a comment.

SOURCE: Maytag Neptune Part Change?

I haven’t had to change the water inlet valve but is this the valve assembly you purchased?
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-fav6800aww-%3d%3dc292i1032809&PartID=1032809
It looks like they throw in an install instruction sheet at this parts supplier site. If you have this do they speak to adapting the wiring harness to the H/C valve assembly. I’m sure you are not lucky enough to have male spade connections on you replacement inlet valve. If they are spade lugs this would be a piece of cake to interface too. Looks like a molded connector on the inlet valve to terminate the 120VAC power to the valve assembly.
I called the supplier above and if your machine starts with serial number 18 or above you need to purchase an upper LED wiring harness p/n 1185286 $55 to interface to the replacement H/C valve you purchased. Or you can purchase p/n 1404313 wiring info for $7.50 for the DIY’er. I know this is a bit frustrating. I don’t have the valve in hand so I can’t offer a quick solution. I’m willing to bet the wiring harness they are selling for $55 is nothing more than a cable with proper female/male mating connector transitions to interface to the factory 120VAC connections to the inlet valve. If my water inlet valve fails I would be in the same boat as you but I would make up an interface cable before spending $55. Maybe a more knowledgeable forum member can offer a better solution. Good luck to you.

SOURCE: Maytag neptune washer model fav6800aww wont finish spin cycle

Hello c bellone,
If you rotate the clutch pulley by hand CW the tumblers should rotate in the wash basket. If you rotate the clutch pulley CCW the tumblers will rotate until the clutch spring comes under tension then the wash basket will begin to turn CCW and the tumblers will stop rotating because the transmission rotates with the wash basket. Do you have this action?
The clutch has been an issue for many are you taking dc or UC errors to the display? This clutch incorporates a Drawn Cup Roller clutch bearing (one way clutch bearing) designed to rotate freely CW and lock up CCW to rotate the spinner shaft in spin cycle rotating the wash basket/transmission CCW. You are halfway thru the clutch removal process, I would drop the clutch out and inspect the roller clutches, clean them up with WD-40 and some light bearing grease. If they are rusted up beyond clean up and or the clutch spring is broken as in this post you will have to replace the clutch. You will know what you are up against once the clutch is out and opened up for inspection.
Here is the process I use for clutch removal;
Access and remove the Clutch for maintenance
Disconnect 120VAC power cord.
The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.
Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point.
Remove the front panel see page 41.
Tools required;
3/8 inch socket and socket wrench to remove clutch pulley bolt. Page 47 of the SM
1/2 inch socket or wrench to loosen Drive Motor tension bolt.
5/16 nut driver or 5/16 ¼ socket on an extension to remove front panel see page 41 of the SM.
1. Lean the washer back and blocked in that position for a better reach angle. Rotate 3/8” clutch Pulley Bolt CW to remove clutch bolt.
2. Follow SM page 46 & 47 to remove clutch pulley.
3. Remove 4 screws holding plastic cover on clutch, inspect clutch spring to make sure it is not broken. Inspect roller bearings clean up with WD-40 and re-lube with bearing grease.
4. Replace white bearing plate into clutch pulley hub, insure key slot slips into clutch Spring pin in clutch hub.
5. Replace Clutch plastic cover with 4 screws.
6. Reseat clutch on spinner shaft and rock back and forth while lifting clutch with upward pressure to reseat clutch. When seated properly you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).
7. Do a quick wash and make sure clutch runs true with no wobble or clicking sound. If the clutch has not been seated properly it will spin off. If this happens go to page 16 of the SM Board Output Test and turn on Drain Pump in Service Mode to pump out excess water.
8. Repeat steps 6&7 if the clutch has excessive noise or spins off.

My clutch open up for clean up.