Question about Fisher Paykel EcoSmart GWL15

1 Answer

Begins to pump water out, motor smells hot, shuts down

Washer performs wash cycle with no problems, begins to drain water, smells hot, then eventually shuts down. We found a small stick in the pump, removed and reassembled. If I power down and attempt to 'spin only' the machine will again perform for a short time until the motor smells hot again, and then shuts down.

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  • janet Nov 27, 2012

    *note: no fault codes display when it shuts down.

  • janet Nov 29, 2012

    $140 new pump online/overnight shipping and ten minute install we doind laundry again.

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  • Fisher Master
  • 745 Answers

Replace pump windings are shorting out

Posted on May 03, 2018

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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prem mathew

  • 1294 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher paykel washer wont spin

Check your exit hose spigot, it may be clogged. This is if your filter is all clean. There should be air for passage in the standpipe behind. Your hose should not fit airtight into the standpipe and neither too deep into it. Snaking out your standpipe would be good too.

Rate me pl.....if helped. Click on 'thanks for trying' if not helped, your prob will be back for someone else to solve.

Posted on Feb 21, 2008

Anonymous

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: Washer Won't Spin

ck under agitator pull dispenser out remove large wing nut dowm center of agitator pull up ..nothing there remove rubber pluggs each side of top remove phillip screws lift top pull tub ring off at tabs along edge and remove.. basket lifts out ck under it

Posted on Apr 27, 2008

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel GW712 washing machine continuously

Out of balance switch could be faulty/ coroded.
have a gw 709 and it had the same problem, out of balance switch had jammed on

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel GWL15 washer won't drain. A

Hi There,You could bail out as much water as possible,Then If you lean the machine back against the wall,(with machine unplugged) you could remove the bottom plate (if fitted) and you will see the pump with a fan attached,Try turning the fan back & forth it may loosen the obstruction and you could then pump the water out before removing the pump for a service,A the front of the pump you will see a small plastic locking clip that needs to be held out while you turn the pump anti-clockwise for removel.Note treat everthing to be live on this machine if plugged in.(unplug machine before attemting any procedure) Best Regards.

Posted on Aug 21, 2009

BIKER T

Terence Fourie

  • 909 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel washer GW712 won't spin

There is an issue with your drainage area. Best to remove the pump and check for the obstruction in the line or at the impellar.(If the water is not completely drained, the pressure switch wont send a low level to the timer to allow a spin).

Posted on Sep 14, 2009

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1 Answer

How do you ascertain if its drain pump or faulty controller board causing a fault 37 on a gw612?


Read the answer in the link below first, but in your case it can also be a faulty or blocked diverter valve. If you are good with a multimeter check the resistance of the pump windings. It should read around 33 ohms. It is not uncommon for the pumps to cook themselves and you can smell and see the burned out motor. I hope this is of some help

http://www.fixya.com/support/t25754844-error_code_37_fisher_paykel_8_5_kg_front


Jul 24, 2015 | Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines

1 Answer

I have a kenmore series 80 23832 100 washer. The spin cycle does not evacuate all of the water ( most of it) there is water left under the tub inside the machine. The clothes come out wet and there is a...


There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question&^%$

May 13, 2010 | Kenmore 23822 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore frontload washer model # 417.44092500 that will not spin the water out. It will wash and drain, but then when it is time to spin it will tumble the clothes and then when the wash time gets...


There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Dec 30, 2009 | Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My front load wash machine is full of water. i try to drain and spin. it just shuts back off.


First thing i would recommend, is lower pipe and drain water out of unit.Get to the point where you can eventually remove drain pump from unit as im sure it is blocked. (Microprocessor is confused by the still full signal and is instructed to shut down) Once completed, if you have a reset fascility on your unit, reset it. If not retest by starting wash cycle from the beginning.Please let me know if not the answere. .

Sep 23, 2009 | GE WSXH208A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Wahser stopped after wash cycle, burning smell


Hi, it is possible that something got into the pump and stopped it from turning. Let the drain hose down so that it drains into a bucket or a floor drain if possible.
If water does not drain then it is deffinetly plugged. Once you get the water out of the washer, tip it against the wall and try to remove the pump off the motor. There are two clips that hold the pump on. You will also need to remove the hoses.
With the pump off, you can set the washer back down and try to run the spin cycle. If the motor runs, it must be the pump.
Please let me know if I can assist you further.
Thanks
Vic

May 23, 2009 | Roper RAS6233KQ Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer stopped at begin of wash cycle


The problem seems to lie in the rubber backed mat. If the rubber has begun to peel of the mat it often-times get stuck in the drain pump. The best thing to do at this point is to disconnect the electrical cord, open up the machine, drain out the water as best as possible disconnect the power cord to the drain and the hoses. Clean out the drain pump. reassemble. You should be good to go., Unless the drain pump is burned out (left running plugged up too long) if thats the case, replacement of the pump may be neccessary.... Hope this helps...Good luck!.... Bill

May 17, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

1 Answer

GE Top Load Washer WLSR2000G3WW~smells like burning and wont drain


The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:

  • If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.


  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.


Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

The cycle doesn't advance When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

  • It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.


  • It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.

Nov 06, 2008 | GE WBSR3140DW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Eco smart won't drain, smells hot


hi
you commented on hearing water in the machine after the wash , i know that f&p spin bowls have a liquid inside the actual spin bowl system i think it aids in the spin operation of the machine, but if you had something in the drain network then that will stop the machine from emptingout as it all works on a time basis check and see that you are not getting any leaks from the bottom of the machime as your new pump won't last long if it gets wet also if there is water leaking that can be the main seal on the motor shaft failing
cheers grant

Oct 19, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Maytag Atlantis shut down during rinse cycle.


Contacted a local repair shop. They told me that if I got it spinning again, the motor was most likely ok. It is protected by a thermal switch that turns it off when it begins to overheat. The smell was to be expected as it was overheating; the difficutly restarting was because it hadn't cooled off enough yet. We have now used it a few times for small loads. Still getting a smell, but the wash cycle is completing ok.

Jul 23, 2008 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Admiral Washer smells like mildew


yes it could . If you are trying to pump the water 7 feet or more above the floor then it will at the end of the cycle get air into the drain hose causing cavatation, the result when the machines stops is the water running back down the drain hose back into the tub and that is what causes the musty smell.
Lower the drain if possible

Apr 10, 2008 | Admiral AW22 Top Load Washer

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