When I switch receiver on a loud pop (snap) sound is heard from speakers

Dried out electrolytic capacitor(s) shorted

Yes this is a common problem. You have to have it refered to a TV SHOP. I can fix it for you but in CA. the wiring on the speakers needs to be upgraded to a thicker wire. The gauge is to small for the current needed to flow evenly.


$75.00 Fix

If you are still seeing meter deflection in received signals, it sounds like something in the audio amplifier went south.

Check for any bursted electrolytic capacitors on its main power supply regulator board. The sound you heard might be to this burst. Take care, and unplug the TV from AC mains supply wall socket, before opening and checking this board. See examples of bulged [bursted] capacitor.

These are rated peak 600 Watts... your amp should NOT be bigger than 200 Watts RMS per speaker cabinet driving these to prevent burning out the speakers. The pop MAY have driven the speakers to full excursion and temporarily shorted the speaker voice coil. Test the DC resistance of the speaker... if you find it is under about 3.7 ohms you have damaged the speakers and continued use may damage your amplifier.. Often people will unplug a guitar cable causing a loud pop in the PA system and that CAN damage the speakers if the amp is too big.

In addition to the impedance rating of a speaker, there is also a wattage rating. Ideally, power output of the amplifier should not exceed the power handling rating of the speakers. The input impedance of the speakers should match the amplifier output impedance for maximum power transfer (Rin = Rout where R is resistance in Ohms). Supplying more power or wattage to the speaker than it can handle will result in distortion, and if the output of the amp is high enough and present long enough, it will damage the voice coil of the speaker. Make sure that when comparing wattage ratings, you are comparing the same rating between amps & speakers. Watts can be expressed three different ways: "Peak", "Peak to Peak" and the industry standard "RMS". The relationship is such: an industry standard value of "70 Watts RMS" (70W RMS) equals "100 Watts Peak" (100W P) *and* also is the same as "200 Watts Peak to Peak" (200W P-P). Furthermore, there is no such thing as 200W "Music Power" (but is often expressed this way to inflate the RMS wattage rating (and usually is close to the P-P rating). A speaker is an electrical device, so most the things that happen to electrical devices when over powered can happen to speakers and amplifiers, too.

Increasing the signal source level (input signal to the amp via volume control) in an attempt to get more audio power to the speaker can overdrive the amplifier - resulting in "clipping". This is plainly heard as "muddied" sound. The otherwise loud, crisp, clean passages in music end up sounding garbled and unpleasant when an amplifier is over driven in this way. This can damage both the amp and the speaker.

Cheap amps with higher THD (total harmonic distortion) ratings sound worse than their counterparts with a lower THD rating - when all other variables are the same. You'll pay extra for lower THD values.

You might be able to make a speaker seem louder by positioning the speakers against a wall, on the floor, etc. Experiment; as it can make a significant difference in sound levels and low frequency bass sounds.

I hope this was helpful!

Ur tv have burns capacitors,look for pop ups caps.

Capacitors tend to pop when they fail. Phillips LCD TVs have lots of problems with capacitor failures in their power supplies. I've got my 37mf231d apart on my workbench as we speak. Mine makes a whistling sound which I believe is either a solder fault or a bad capacitor.

A new power supply board is about $150 for that TV. The gamble, of course, is if the power supply took out something else when it failed.

Looks like you've got the best connection available - initially I thought it might have something to do with decoding the prologic signal from the analog input, but obviously not! And since you've got the audio separate from the video it is unlikely there is any interference from the video signal in the cable. Have you tried a different DVD player (I reckon that is most likely)? Also try connecting the video signal DIRECTLY from DVD to the TV if you aren't already doing so (you are anyway aren't you - the HTR 5660 doesn't have HDMI out does it?) Finally, if you have some spare cables around, try changing them - see if you get the same response when using component video cable instead of HDMI.

I used to have a set of speakers with 'poly switch' over-current protectors (kind of a 'soft' fuse the size of a small ceramic capacitor) installed in-line with the speaker terminals. (Each speaker in an enclosure needed its own device.) The theory was they appeared as a dead short until their rating was exceeded, going open-circuit to protect the (assumed, more expensive) speaker element. When things 'cooled down' it returned to the former short status and the speakers came alive again. Testing the device with a decent drive signal (it worked), I noticed the sound 'strangled' and only a low-volume, higher-frequency component of the source signal was heard through the speaker. (So I guess it wasn't *totally* open circuit...) After a few seconds of signal removal (and reduction of source volume) the sound came back to normal. Here's my thought: Perhaps your speakers have these devices installed and the devices are operating accordingly. Of course, if the source signal is of a known low-volume, then it sounds like an amplifier component is failing on load. Especially if the speakers behave normally using another amplier. Cheers...