Kenmore - 43142 front load - leaking

If you're talking about the drain pump hose, that's a fairly simple fix. If you removed the inlet side, you simply push it back over the inlet tube making sure it is on ALL the way. If I'm not mistaken, the plastic inlet tube has a slightly beveled shape. That is, it's wider at the end. You need to make sure you get the hose fitted over that tube correctly, and the clamp is properly seated all the way around or it won't seal. If you can't get the squeeze-type clamp on all the way, you can try using a standard screw on hose clamp.

Now, depending on how the door seal is leaking, this could be an easy fix, or this could mean replacing the whole seal. The door boot has an inner and outer groove that it seats in. The outer seal around the door opening is just a matter of seating the rubber seal into the groove around the door all the way around. Sometimes the seal is glued on.

Now, if the inner seal around the wash tub has come off, you will need to remove the console, door, door latch, and front of the washer to get to it properly. To do so, follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG THE WASHER, FIRST.
2. Remove the two screws holding the top of the machine on. They will be located in the rear of the washer. The top should slide back a bit, then lift off.
3. Remove the dispenser tray and console. The console has a couple of screws holding it on. (Don't forget the one behind the dispenser tray). Take a small putty knife and gently slide it under the console just above the door and lift just slightly. This will release a plastic tab holding it on. The console should lift out from the bottom first, then off. Carefully lay the console out of the way on top of the washer. You DO NOT need to disconnect the wiring harness.
4. Remove the lower kick panel.
5. Remove the screws holding the door in place, and set the door aside. Be careful, it's made of glass.
6. Carefully unseat the outer door seal ONLY, and push the rubber boot inside the machine door to expose the door casing opening.
7. On the right hand side of the door, remove the three screws holding the door latch in place. With your free hand reach inside the casing and gently pull the door latch off the casing and move it out of the way. You can let the latch hang, but be gentle with the wires.
8. Now that the casing is free of everything, there should be 2 screws on the top and 2 screws on the bottom holding it on. Remove the front of the machine and you will now have full access to the inner door seal on the tub.
9. If the seal is not torn, you should be able to re-seat it. The inner seal fits into a groove all the way around the tub. There will either be a large band clamp holding it on, or (I think in your case) a large retaining spring. If it's just a band clamp, loosen the clamp first and slide it off, so you can check the seating of the rubber boot. Then slide the clamp back into place, making sure it is seated properly all the way around the seal. Then, tighten with a 7mm nut drive being careful not to over tighten.
10. Now, the spring type, I'm afraid, is the trouble encountered with trying to get the door boot to go back on. It will take some muscle, and the effort of a couple more hands, to get it to go back on. Starting at the top, make sure the seal is seated properly all the way around, first. If the spring has come out, start at the top again and start working the spring back into the groove. At the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions, you will need someone to hold tension on it by holding it in place. Then pull it straight down and snap it back into the groove around the bottom half of the seal. It may take some effort.

I know this seems like a lot, but it should be fairly simple if you follow these steps. Good luck and let me know if this was helpful. If you're talking about the drain pump hose, that's a fairly simple fix. If you removed the inlet side, you simply push it back over the inlet tube making sure it is on ALL the way. If I'm not mistaken, the plastic inlet tube has a slightly beveled shape. That is, it's wider at the end. You need to make sure you get the hose fitted over that tube correctly, and the clamp is properly seated all the way around or it won't seal. If you can't get the squeeze-type clamp on all the way, you can try using a standard screw on hose clamp. Now, depending on how the door seal is leaking, this could be an easy fix, or this could mean replacing the whole seal. The door boot has an inner and outer groove that it seats in. The outer seal around the door opening is just a matter of seating the rubber seal into the groove around the door all the way around. Sometimes the seal is glued on. Now, if the inner seal around the wash tub has come off, you will need to remove the console, door, door latch, and front of the washer to get to it properly. To do so, follow these steps: 1. UNPLUG THE WASHER, FIRST. 2. Remove the two screws holding the top of the machine on. They will be located in the rear of the washer. The top should slide back a bit, then lift off. 3. Remove the dispenser tray and console. The console has a couple of screws holding it on. (Don't forget the one behind the dispenser tray). Take a small putty knife and gently slide it under the console just above the door and lift just slightly. This will release a plastic tab holding it on. The console should lift out from the bottom first, then off. Carefully lay the console out of the way on top of the washer. You DO NOT need to disconnect the wiring harness. 4. Remove the lower kick panel. 5. Remove the screws holding the door in place, and set the door aside. Be careful, it's made of glass. 6. Carefully unseat the outer door seal ONLY, and push the rubber boot inside the machine door to expose the door casing opening. 7. On the right hand side of the door, remove the three screws holding the door latch in place. With your free hand reach inside the casing and gently pull the door latch off the casing and move it out of the way. You can let the latch hang, but be gentle with the wires. 8. Now that the casing is free of everything, there should be 2 screws on the top and 2 screws on the bottom holding it on. Remove the front of the machine and you will now have full access to the inner door seal on the tub. 9. If the seal is not torn, you should be able to re-seat it. The inner seal fits into a groove all the way around the tub. There will either be a large band clamp holding it on, or (I think in your case) a large retaining spring. If it's just a band clamp, loosen the clamp first and slide it off, so you can check the seating of the rubber boot. Then slide the clamp back into place, making sure it is seated properly all the way around the seal. Then, tighten with a 7mm nut drive being careful not to over tighten. 10. Now, the spring type, I'm afraid, is the trouble encountered with trying to get the door boot to go back on. It will take some muscle, and the effort of a couple more hands, to get it to go back on. Starting at the top, make sure the seal is seated properly all the way around, first. If the spring has come out, start at the top again and start working the spring back into the groove. At the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions, you will need someone to hold tension on it by holding it in place. Then pull it straight down and snap it back into the groove around the bottom half of the seal. It may take some effort. I know this seems like a lot, but it should be fairly simple if you follow these steps. Good luck and let me know if this was helpful.