It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
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The lid switch, which prevents the washer from agitating or spinning when the lid is open, could be malfunctioning. If that happens, a built-in failure detector will stop washer operations until the lid switch is repaired. Replace with this part.Here is a video to walk you thru the repair.
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Please power cycle your machine and then rotate the cycle dial by 90 degrees counter clockwise (opposite of usual direction of rotation), then attempt to run a wash cycle again. Otherwise, I would run a rinse cycle and poor some toothpaste in the washer in order to unclog any potential blocks before attempting the wash again.
First you need to list the model number in order for me to figure out what type of washer it is then i can help you. The reason I ask is some Maytag Ensignia's come with electronic timers and some models have old style timers...
It is possible that you need a new timer which is a part number: 22003362and is usually about $75-$100 but it is also possible that one of the components of the knob is not functioning properly. The best bet is to take the knob apart (make sure the arrow points to a wash cycle first) and then pull up on the time timer shaft itself. If the washer starts then you know its one of the components of the knob that when bad. If it doesn't then you know you need a timer.
If this is a direct drive washer (no belts) you have a bad water pump or a sock has gotten sucked in to stop it up. get under it look for two hoses going to a white looking valve. If you pull the hoses look out for all the water to flood out so be preped. Pull the pump out and ck for sock or fuzz in it then try to turn to trun by hand if its hard its bad. repost if need more help.
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