Washer Stuck Lid will not open, the washer was in the Spin, then a several messages were displayed. I pressed stop button nothing happend, pressed the ON/OFF button no responsed. I unpluged power supply, wait for 10 minutes, then plugged in the power cord. Machine turned on, initalized than turned off by itself.

It is important to set the size switch setting into the Motor Controller's memory whenever a replacement Motor Controller and or Display Module is fitted
To set the size switch turn the power on at the wall and off at the machine. Press and hold the TEMPERATURE UP button then press the POWER button. SmartDrive will give 4 short beeps and the pattern of LEDs will change.
• Press SPIN SPEED UP button, the SPIN HOLD LED is on for (8.0kg) (650mm wide). • Press POWER to exit this mode.
If this doesn't work let me know

F51 error code is a motor rotor position sensor failure or a lower harness problem. You need to check the motor in manual test mode, not automatic test mode. This will check the hall sensors and do a spin test: Be sure the washer is in standby mode (plugged in with all indicators off; or with only the Clothes Clean or Done indicator on). Select any one button (except POWER, START, STOP, and PAUSE/CANCEL) and follow the steps below, using the same button: Press/hold 3 seconds. Release for 3 seconds. Press/hold 3 seconds. Release for 3 seconds. Press/hold 3 seconds.

If this test mode has been entered successfully, all indicators on the console are illuminated for 5 seconds with 88 showing in the Estimated Time Remaining two-digit display. During the 5 second wait time with 88 showing in the display, press the same button once. You should be in manual test mode. If the button is not pressed within 5 seconds, the automatic test mode begins. The Rotor Position Sensor uses Wash, Rinse, and Spin indicators to detect the three hall sensors. Console can have up to two of these indicators on at the same time when the tub is not moving. Open the lid and rotate the basket by hand. The Wash, Rinse, and Spin indicators should toggle on and off according to the direction the tub is being turned.

SPIN TEST: Make sure lid is down. Press and release: 2nd RINSE or EXTRA RINSE. The lid locks and the lid lock indicator turns on. Press and release; SPIN SPEED, WATER LEVEL, or LOAD SIZE. The motor/basket spins at 23 rpm. Press again, motor /basket spins at 530 rpm. Press again, motor/basket spins at 950 rpm. Press again and motor turns off.

Hi Peter, If I understand your question correctly, you are asking what the code "HD" means for your machine. I am unable to find the code "HD", however, here is a list of the codes for these Maytag models, perhaps one looks similar to "HD". Hopefully this answers your question!

Washer displaying code messages
- "LF" (Washer is taking too long to fill)
Check the following:
Are the water inlet hoses kinked or clogged?
Are the water inlet valve screens clear?
Press PAUSE/CANCEL to clear display.
- "Ld" (Washer is taking too long to drain water from the wash tub)
Check the following:
Is the drain hose kinked or clogged?
Is the drain hose installed properly? See "Connect the Drain Hose." Press PAUSE/CANCEL
to clear display.
- "uL" (Unbalanced Load)
If the load is unbalanced, the washer will display this code while running an imbalanced
load correction routine at the end of the wash cycle and before the final spin. If the code
remains and the wash cycle dial is flashing after the recovery routine has stopped, open
lid and redistribute the load. Close lid and press START.
- "oL" (Over Load)
Is the washer overloaded? The washer has attempted to fill and begin the wash cycle. If
the washer is overloaded, it will drain any water and detergent that was added during the
fill. To correct the overload, remove several items and add detergent. Close lid and press
START.
- "Sd" (Suds Detected)
Did you use regular detergent?
Regular or hand-washing detergents are not recommended for this washer. Use only High
Efficiency ("HE") detergent.
Did you add too much detergent?
Always measure detergent. Follow detergent manufacturer's directions.
If excessive suds are detected, the washer will display this code while running a suds
reduction correction routine at the end of the wash cycle. The suds reduction routine
removes extra suds and assures proper rinsing of your garments. If the code remains and
the wash cycle dial is flashing after the recovery routine has stopped, re-select your
desired cycle using cold water. Press START. Do not add detergent.
- "lid" (Lid Opened)
Is the lid open? Close the lid to clear the display. If the lid remains open for more than 10
minutes, water in the wash tub will drain.
- "HC" (Cold and Hot hoses switched)
This code will appear at the end of the wash cycle to indicate that the cold and hot water
inlet hoses are switched. See "Connect the Inlet Hoses."
- "dL" (Door/Lid cannot lock)
Indicates lid is not locked. Check for items caught in the lid keeping it from closing. Press
PAUSE/CANCEL once to clear the code.
- "dU" (Door/Lid cannot unlock)
Is there excessive weight on the lid, such as a basket of laundry? Excessive weight will
keep the lid from unlocking. Press PAUSE/CANCEL once to clear the code.
- "F##" code
Press PAUSE/CANCEL once to clear code. Press START. If code appears again, call for
service.

lid switch is stuck or bad. spin baring may be going bad

The "uL" message stands for "unbalanced load." Open the lid to the washer and redistribute the load if the "uL" display appears on the appliance.Redistributing the load should correct any imbalances in the washer and allow the washer to turn freely. Close the lid and press "Start" to restart the washer.

Water not draining from the tub. Check for hose crimp ir clog. Here is your manual codes on page 19.
http://www.whirlpool.com/assets/pdfs/product/ZUSECARE/8566930.pdf

Hello donaldwoulla,
I’m an owner of a FAV6800AWW not a GURU, this forum automated rating system is way too generous, I will try to help. Do you feel OK to try some troubleshooting? The following troubleshooting assumes you want try a possible DIY fix.
“FL” code is Failed to lock, we will try a few troubleshooting steps. The following test will be done by selecting the Spin Only cycle. First test will be done in service mode.
1. This is from SM; Press Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys for 3 seconds to activate Service Mode. Access Board Output Test by pressing the Delicates key. Display shows “ot” and the lid locks should actuate locking the lid. Does this happen, do you take the “FL” fail code in this process? Hit OFF button to cancel this test.

2. I want to make sure you signal an “OP” alarm to the display. Can you select Spin Only cycle with the lid open press start. Do you signal the “OP” alarm, lid open to the display? If it does close the lid and the “OP” alarm should clear, does it? I’m checking that the lid magnet is in place and the signaling connections are working thru the left lid lock back to the control board.

3. With spin only cycle selected and the lid closed press the Start Button do both lid locks try to close and lock the lid? From your initial post I believe you throw a “FL” to the display very quickly, that is the left and right lid locks do not actuate several times before the control board displays the “FL” fail code. Is that correct?

4. This step requires you to raise the top off the washer you will need to the move the washer out several inches and you should have a helper available to hold the lid up for you. Unplug the washer from the 120VAC outlet. Use this info and the FAV6800A/9800A Service Manual to assist you. To raise the top of the machine, insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point. We are going to reseat the Left Lid Lock plug a couple of times into the Left Lid Lock. We are checking to see if there might be some corrosion on the plug contacts. Take a look at page 34 of the SM. Top right of the page Lid Lock/Reed Switch Removal where the persons thumb is. This is the plug we want to remove and reseat a few times. It may be difficult to do remove so be careful. Mine was very difficult to remove the first time. This lid lock is near the bleach dispenser and other owners have had corrosion issues with this left lock causing issues. After doing this and you have reseated the plug into the left lid lock a few times power up the washer and give it a try.

Just to let you know don’t worry about the right lid lock, it’s signaling and control functions are in parallel with the left lid lock. I’ve had mine disconnected since mid Dec. The left lid lock is the important lid lock. It has the dual functions of signaling the control board that the lid is open/closed by the magnetic reed relay in that lid lock and the lid is locked by contact closure back to the control board in that lid lock. If this doesn’t help resolve the issue we will try removing the left lid lock to inspect if you feel OK to continue. Good luck. Rich

Yes. It is a timer. A lot of time though, the washer stop because the lid control switch is open. I means the washer has a sensor to stop when the lid is open or when the spin go widely unbalanced. Sometimes this sensor is too sensitive to vibration and stop the machine. The switch is in the back just behind the timer.

OL on my washing machine

The timer is bad / shorted. Mine used to try to spin with the water in it... that was a sight to see!