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Re: The water supply will not turn while furnace is off
24v ac cyliniod on the water line, probably mineral deposits or just went bad, it gets its power from the terminal board on newer units have a humidifier output on them, check there to.
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Without knowing the exact humidifier and how it's wired one can only guess.
There are many different ways to wire a humidifier, one method involves the use of a current sensing relay monitoring the operation of the furnace fan motor. Another uses the HUM terminals on the furnace to control the humidifier.
Has the humidifier ever worked properly? If so, a component has failed. If not, it wired incorrectly and you need to refer back to your installation manual.
There should be a copper line going to the Humidifier follow it back to the main water supply and there should be a water shut off there. Either a quarter turn ball valve or a Saddle Valve with a T stem coming out the top Turn the T Clockwise till it get tight. If there is no shut off valves Check and see if there is a Humidistat that You can shut the Power off to the Solonid Valve. But if the Solonid Valve is leaking bye that won't work. If the Humidifier has a seperate Power Cord and not getting power from the furnace you can unplug it also.
I would recommend that you shut off water supply and remove solenoid valve.Disassemble valve and clean it making sure that there is nothing stopping the valve from fully closing. If you can not find any problem after cleaning then reassemble and leave the outlet connection loose.Turn on furnace and see if the valve is even trying to close. If not then you need to replace the solenoid valve. Hope this helps. Thank you.
Hope this helps, check and see if humidistat is set to 35% humidity and that bypass damper on humidifier is in the open position or winter position.(humidistat is usually located on cold air return duct near furnace). Next, replace humidifier media pad, remember to replace media pad (filter) annually, you also may want to clean any lime deposit out of humidifier housing with a solution of warm water and white vinegar before installing your new media filter.Remember to turn power off at side of furnace when cleaning humidifier and replacing media. Before installing new media turn power back on to furnace, set humidistat to the on position, turn furnace thermostat above room temp., and inspect humidifier to see if water is running from top,(you may want to have a bucket under humidifier when checking for water), if you see water running, turn power back off to furnace, properly install new media filter, reconnect humidifier cover & set humidistat to 35%. If you do not see water present, check water supply valve to humidifier and make sure its turned on. If water supply valve is open, then check water supply tubing for blockage.And the last things to check is to make sure all registers through out your home are open and not blocked by any objects, also make sure furnace filter is cleaned, if none of this works refer to installation manual to see if humidifier was sized and installed properly, Good luck.
The furnace should be equipped with a #50 relay to turn the Humidifier on and off when only when the furnace blower is on. You should have a test mode on your humidistat. Do you have water coming up to the solenoid valve? Make sure that the saddle valve is turned on to supply the water to the humidifier. Is your humidistat set high enough to turn the humidifier on? Is it plugged in?
Good luch
HVAC Teacher
It is possible you may have wired it wrong. Make sure your humidifer is not robbing power from your thermostat. This would explain when your humidifer makes a demand to come on it robs power from your t-stat making it lose its call for heat. Wire your humidistat to the "w" terminal and the common terminal so it only runs on a call for heat. With the bypass type of humidifier you purchased it wont do you any good to run when the heat isn't running anyway. If you want an independent operation humidifier you need a steam type.
I would suggest turning up the humidistat (usually located on the the return air duct to a higher setting and listening for a "click" noise on the supply valve. If you do hear a click but dont see / hear any water than the culprit is likely the valve itself.
Hello Genna,
I am not a furnace guy but I may be able to give you a few ideas of things to diagnose the problem and get it resolved. First off, I assume you have a thermostat that you use to to turn your heat on. If it is a generic ( meaning : non programmable model) then you should be able to try this simple test. Remove the cover ( typically they snap on) around the thermostat so you can see the control mechanism inside. You should see few skinny wires ( similar to those used on a telephone wire) solid copper in various colors.. When you rotate the dial on your thermostat to call for heat, there is a small glass vial that has a drop of mercury ( which is electrically conductive) in it that makes contact and shorts two control wires together ad that is what calls for heat on your furnace. When the temp inside the room where the thermostat is reaches the tempertaure you requested, the bimetal mechanism either contracts or expands to reposition that glass vial to shift the mercury off the contacts and your furnace shuts off... That is the basics behind how your thermostat and furnace work ( generally speaking) If you can identify the two wires inside the thermosat that are shorted together when that vial of mercury shorts them inside it.. you can temproarily unhook them ( they are low voltage.. normally 24 Volts or less) so no worries about getting ashock or anything.. and short them together for a minute or two.. by doing that... your furnace should turn on and heat should flow.... Once you start your furnace this way.. unhook these two wires and your furnace should shut down .. It may take a minute or two ( depending on the control for it) If it doesn't..then your problem is on the furnace side and you may need to get the furnace control system serviced or replaced.. if it does shut down, then your problem is your thermostat and thats a simple replacement.. Also.. make sure the thermostat was properly leveled on its base.. The position of the thermostat ( meaning level) will dictate when that mercury makes contact and your furnace switches on.. OK..I tried to explain the works of this to you but here is a link to a Honeywell site that explains it in simpler terms.. The part about shorting the two wires together and then opening them will aid you in identifying where the problem actually is.. here is the link: http://homerepair.about.com/od/heatingcoolingrepair/ss/thermostat.htm
Hope this helps you more than confuses you..
Regards
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