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I tried lube and still no help. The problem is due to me pushing the motor to hard on a large piece of wood. the blade got hot and then stopped. I blue a breaker before I shut it off. Now when I start it up it sounds smooth and fine for about 2 seconds then it makes a rough sound and trips my breaker.I tried lube and still no help. The problem is due to me pushing the motor to hard on a large piece of wood. the blade got hot and then stopped. I blue a breaker before I shut it off. Now when I start it up it sounds smooth and fine for about 2 seconds then it makes a rough sound and trips my breaker.
AnonymousApr 05, 2009
I tried to rip a 2x4 vertically as is touted by Makita. The blade locked up and I hit the safety to off. Tried to cut something else and the motor immediately started to smoke. I think the motor is gone.I tried to rip a 2x4 vertically as is touted by Makita. The blade locked up and I hit the safety to off. Tried to cut something else and the motor immediately started to smoke. I think the motor is gone.
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If the motor RPM drops dramatically when the noise starts, it is probably a dry motor bushing, if this just started, lubricating the motor may just fix it.
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If your Milwaukee 6390 circular saw is tripping the circuit breaker even without an extension cord, it could be due to a few reasons:
Overloaded circuit: The circuit may be overloaded with too many other electrical devices or appliances. Try unplugging other devices or turning off lights on the same circuit to see if that resolves the issue.
Short circuit: A short circuit can occur when the insulation on the electrical wires inside the saw becomes damaged or frayed, causing them to come into contact with each other. This can cause a sudden increase in current flow, which can trip the circuit breaker. Check the saw's power cord for any visible damage or wear, and consider having it professionally inspected if you suspect a short circuit.
Faulty circuit breaker: It's possible that the circuit breaker itself is faulty or worn out. Try plugging the saw into a different circuit and see if it still trips the breaker. If it does, the issue may be with the saw itself.
Motor overload: If the saw's motor is under strain or is overloaded, it can trip the circuit breaker. Check the blade for any binding or resistance, and ensure that the blade is sharp and properly aligned.
If none of these solutions resolve the issue, you may want to consider taking the saw to a professional repair shop to have it inspected and repaired.
There are a few possible reasons why your AOSmith 1hp lift motor starts and then trips the breaker:
Overload: The motor may be overloaded and drawing too much current. Check the load on the motor and make sure it is within the motor's capacity.
Short Circuit: A short circuit could be causing the motor to draw too much current and trip the breaker. Check the wiring for any signs of damage or wear.
Faulty Motor: The motor itself could be faulty and causing the overload or short circuit. Check the motor windings for any signs of damage or wear.
Tripped Thermal Overload: The motor may have a thermal overload switch that shuts off the motor if it gets too hot. Check the motor for any signs of overheating and reset the thermal overload switch if necessary.
Faulty Breaker: The breaker itself could be faulty and tripping prematurely. Check the breaker for any signs of wear or damage.
It is recommended to consult a licensed electrician or motor technician to diagnose and fix the issue, as working with electricity can be dangerous if not done properly.
The button is a current overload protection for the motor. There is a variety of causes. Defective motor windings, carbonized burnt pressure switch contacts, loose connection (e.g. cord to plug, switch terminals, motor terminals), wrong voltage supply to the motor, worn motor bearings, drive belt too tight, or defective driven machine.
I would run the motor with no load, remove the belt or coupling to the compressor pump, and read the amperes and compare to the motor nameplate rating, let it idle a few minutes and listen for bearing noise. By reading motor amperes or current while the compressor is still connected to the motor, it can be determined if the reset button/overload protector is weak. Check every electrical connection for discoloration or overheating and repair if any are found. Check the contacts of the pressure switch. If nothing wrong is found and the motor is just overdrawing current or amperes, then it is time to replace the motor, probably due to a weak or defective motor internal winding.
The unit rated at 3 HP at 115 volts draws 13.8 amps is odd, a HP in watts is 745 and should be about 2200 watts and 19 amps plus a efficiency loss. Odd to see the ratings don't jive with electric theory/formulas.
The compressor should be connected directly to the wall and if using an extension cord, the cord needs to be #12 AWG or larger to avoid line voltage loss and over amping of the motor.
Here is contact and support info: For more information, please call 800/4-MAKITA (800/462-5482) or visit makitatools.com.
My bottom line is, A 115V motor circuit needs 10 amperes per horse power or 30 amp circuit for 3 horse power. Using extension cords calls for upgrade in wire gage of the cord. The advantage of using 230 volts is it cuts the amperes in half and allows use of smaller gage wire. Watts, or volt amperes is the product of volts and amps.
You may have a motor winding lead that has touched the case of the motor, shorting out the windings, drawing too much amperage, thus blowing fuses. You may have to disassemble your motor and check the stator windings for a short as well as the armature windings. Also the motor could be hanging up due to bearing trouble and causing the motor to draw too much amperage. Probably the cheapest thing to do would be to replace the motor.
there are no capacitators that I see. What I would do is unplug the tool and remove the brushes and check there condition for burning/wear and if you can look into the brush tube and carefully turn the motor by hand and look at the commutator for discoloration. Let me know if you need more help. You can download a breakdown at "makitausa.com"
Your compressor should fill within 5 min or so. Here are a few things to check. As compressor is running check all air connections/fittings with soapy water (including regulator, drain fittings and quick connects). Repair as needed. If no leaks, unplug compressor and listen for air leaking from check valve at tank (remove 1/4 airline at checkvalve, brass valve at tank). Replace checkvalve as needed. If no leak at checkvalve, problem most likely valve plate in head of pump. The valve plate has two reed valves that sometimes break. Bad reed valves will cause compressor head to become very hot and discharge air will be hot. Replace as needed. Parts are available at www.toolpartsdirect.com. Good luck.
The ONLY reason that a Breaker "Blows" is due to a severe overload, or short circuit or short between Phase & Earth. Or a Contactor failure. Usually this fault is caused by a faulty Motor Winding. Also Check the STAR/RUN Capacitor. Or the Contactor. Also a mechanical problem may "Jam" up the "Drive-train" and cause the Motor to , Stall, & in turn draw huge amounts of Current trying to keep on going. Use a meter on OHMS and work through checking continuity, up to the Motor, and between the Motor and Neutral. You should "See" the resistance of the Motor, ONLY when the switch is ON. from the Plug end. BE CAREFUL.
I'd say you have a problem. The clicking sound is likely a thermal overload from too much current being drawn and the temp rising.
Once it cools off a little it tries again; draws too much currrent, heats up and the thermal overload kicks it off again.
It could blow the breaker as well, it just hasn't yet. Probably because there isn't a short circuit, just thermal overload from too much current for too long. It's a built in safety device internal to the pump motor.
My guess is the pump is bad -- and either the impellers are shot or a bearing is bad.
It would be nice if you could manually turn the pump shaft and see if it feels stiff or it makes unusual grinding noises, but you probably can't get to it.
I'd also guess that a pump repair is not cost effective, 'cause if the pump is that worn, fixing it will only keep it going 'till the next odd-ball thing goes wrong with it.
I tried lube and still no help. The problem is due to me pushing the motor to hard on a large piece of wood. the blade got hot and then stopped. I blue a breaker before I shut it off. Now when I start it up it sounds smooth and fine for about 2 seconds then it makes a rough sound and trips my breaker.
I tried to rip a 2x4 vertically as is touted by Makita. The blade locked up and I hit the safety to off. Tried to cut something else and the motor immediately started to smoke. I think the motor is gone.
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