Re: What could be the problem with the goodman a/c if you...
Capacitor? will hum if contactor pulled in but no ac power. will hum if contactor pulled in and bad capacitor. depends on how lowd the hum is. loud hum prolly equals bad capacitor
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Hello There are a few things here that could be wrong. 1 Fan motor start capacitor is bad.Silver battery looking device on side of fan.Remove and replace with a new one.
2 Contactor for fan motor is pitted or burnt .If this is the case you will need a new contactor.
3 Fan motor is bad.Check top two before assuming this. Check all fuses and circut breakers also.
Is the compressor running? If not then check the disconnect or fuses. If it is then make sure the fan turns freely and check the fan capacitor. Replace it if it is bad. If the capacitor is good then check the fan motor windings and replace the fan motor if the winding are open. Let me know what you find.
Your evaporator fan motor has quit. You need to find out if it is a relay or the fan motor. These systems come in various different setups. Updraft (vertical) or lay down (horizontal) you have to gain access to the motor and get it out. Turn off all power to the unit, look for any breakers at the panel. open the panel usually the same panel to access the filters. The motor and squirrel cage fan, will come out as one. look closely for rails at the top to slide the motor and cage out. Your wiring should unplug from the top close to the capacitor. you then can unbolt the motor - take pictures so you can reassemble it. Take the motor to a local HVAC store for a match. Be sure you get a new capacitor to go with the new motor.
observe the sequence of operation. stat calls for heat and sends a signal, to furnace. check for 24 volts to common and white wire at furnace.first the forced draft motor starts and should have 120 volts to the plug it attaches to. after forced draft motor starts the pressure or vacuum switch closes should show no 24 volt when checked across terminals. shortly after the ignitor glows and shortly after click the main gas valve opens and main burners fire. shortly after the indoor fan comes on and hot air blows into the ductwork. follow the chain of events to see what doesnt happen and it is a clue to whats broke. maybe start by switching fan switch on stat to on. if fan comes on you have high and low voltage thereby eliminating the stat power and transformer as a problem. if you can see the ignitor look for it to be cracked . look close dont touch any part of it .it is powered by 120 volts when energized from board. dont forget when you take the door off there is no power to the furnace so be prepared to tape the safety switch closed when you are diagnosing.
theres ice in the fan propelar, if you see no ice blocking the propellers its the fan motor itself,if you unplug the fridge and stick something thin between the vents where you feel the air blowing thru and try turning the fan,gently and it spins smooth its the fan motor,if you dont wish to do this turn freezer off,open the door and let it defrost,then plug it in if buzz still there its the fan motor
Sounds like you have a fan motor that has gone bad due to the windings breaking down. It is easy to replace. Comment me back if you have any questions.
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