Frigidaire 20.6 cu. ft. Top Freezer Refrigerator with Factory Installed Ice Maker Logo
Posted on Feb 19, 2009
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Refrigerator / freezer runs but is about 45 deg.

Everything compressor and fans run and defrost timer cycles and eveporator coils are not frozen but frige and freeser are just cool and not freezing. Frige is a Frigidare top freezer and is only 4 years old. It acts like it could be low on freeon do these fridges have a tendancy of leaking and is it repairable?

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  • Posted on Feb 19, 2009
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Before going too far into this diagnosis, we need to do what I refer to as the finger test. This test will determine if the problem is in the sealed system or other areas causing the problem. All repairs made to a unit can be performed with relative ease until there is a problem with the sealed system. One common problem is a restriction, Freon leak or finally, a weak compressor. I need you to remove the inside freezer section evaporator cover to inspect the evaporator coils. Most generally, all the food, shelving and ice maker (if applicable) must be removed. Next, remove any screws related to the removal of the evaporator cover. If you see frost building up on the outside of the cover, scrape with a putty knife or incorporate the use of a hair dryer to remove the frost/ice. Most often there will be a screw hiding in this frost/ice build-up (if applicable). Once you have the cover removed, inspect the frost/ice pattern. Is it evenly built up top to bottom, front to back? If it is evenly built up, the problem is most likely a defrost problem, easily repaired. If, on the other hand, there is only a build-up of frost/ice in one area, this could possibly be a sealed system problem. Use a hair dryer and remove all the frost on the evaporator coils and then plug the unit in and make sure the compressor is running. For the next half hour or so watch the Freon line move slowly along the coil. The line should begin freezing the evaporator coil as it moves along the line. When finished moving, the evaporator coils should be frosted, front to back, top to bottom and left to right. If you wet your finger and touch each portion of the evaporator coil, your finger should lightly stick to the evaporator coil in the area that you touch. If not, the problem is within the sealed system and cost of repair is more than 200.00 depending on the exact problem. This repair requires special tools and skills..Most often if your refrigeration unit is older, not worth the repair because of the cost. Let us know what you find. If we can help further, we are here.

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Yup, these timers have a tiny clock motor that can get lint on them, causing motor failure, should be simple replacement. Refrigerators in cold garages run more to regulate their temperature below 45 degrees.
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Evaporater coil was frozen. Thawed out. Fan is running. Refrigerator was warm. Restarted, refrigerator warm. Freezer to cold frosting. Dampner to refrigerator not staying open.

My first guess is defrost timer, is stuck in defrost, if you can find it, turn it, and if the compressor and fans turn on, you got your answer.
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I have a Westinghouse frostfree rj25m upright fridge/freezer. The freezer is working fine but the refrigerator won't cool. I want to fix it myself as it is an old fridge and really not worth spending $300...

I am not sure if your freezer is working correctly if the fridge compartment is not at the right temperature. The way refrigerators work is that the fridge compartment is indirectly cooled by the freezer. The evaporator coils that cool the freezer, also cool the refrigerator. There is a fan in the freezer section that draws air from the refrigerator and blow them over the coils. The vent to the refrigerator could be blocked by debris or ice build up if the defrost circuit has failed. In order to check, you need to remove the back panel from the freezer section to check the condition of the coils/vent. Also check the fan in the freezer and see if it is operating. If the coil is encased in ice, then the defrost circuit has failed and that needs to be fixed otherwise the freezer will not cool to the correct temperature.

The way the defrost circuit worksis that normally the compressor has power for 8 hours, then the timer cuts power off and sends power to the defrost heater for about 45 minutes. The heater is attached to the coil and warms up the coil to melt the ice. When the coil reaches about 40 deg F, the thermostat which is in series with the heater, opens up cutting off power to the heater. This prevents the freezer from getting too hot. After the 45 minutes are up, the timer switches the power back to the compressor again to restart the 8 hour cooling cycle.

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In the freezer the coils are iced up and water is collected in the bottom of freezer and is frozen. I defrosted it and I can't see a water leak.

You don't have a water leak. The water source that is causing ice build up on your coils comes from the air. The coils are below freezing and the water in the air are freezing on to the coils. Your problem is that your defrost circuit in your fridge has failed. It is made up of three parts, the defrost timer, defrost heater, and thermostat.

The way it works is that normally the compressor has power for 8 hours, then the timer cuts power off and sends power to the defrost heater for about 45 minutes. The heater is attached to the coil and warms up the coil to melt the ice. When the coil reaches about 40 deg F, the thermostat which is in series with the heater, opens up cutting off power to the heater. This prevents the freezer from getting too hot. After the 45 minutes are up, the timer switches the power back to the compressor again to restart the 8 hour cooling cycle.

Any of the three components can fail causing you not to get the defrost cycle to work. Typically the timer stops advancing so you either stay in permanent cooling or defrost mode. Or the heater burns out so it can't heat up the coil.

You can have a service person fix it but, if you have some mechanical ablity it relatively easy to diagnose and fix. To start, check the defrost timer. It looks like this:


slamfix_38.jpg It either located behind the fridge near the compressor or in the temperature control box in the refrigerator compartment. On the side of the timer, there is a round cam that can be turned with a straight screwdriver. Turn it until it clicks. With the fridge plugged in, the compressor should stop and the heater should be turning on and getting warm. Look and listen for signs of melting ice on the coils. There should sounds of ice crackling and water dripping out the drain tube below the fridge. If there is no ice melting, the problem is with the heater/thermstat.

Unplug the fridge and remove the back panel in the freezer compartment. The heater is usually mounted on the bottom of the coil. If you have a meter you can check the heater for continuity. If it open, it needs to be replaced. You can get replacement parts at your local appliance repair supply or online such as repairclinic.com. Hope this helps you.
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No I don't think so. I think you either have a stopped up defrost drain or a bad defrost heater and terminator. Get into the evaporation section and check for ice. If the defrost heater is bad replace the defrost terminator thermostat. Would not be a bad idea to replace the timer or adc (auto defrost control). The fins are coils on the compressor should be clean and the fan motor(if applicable) by the compressor should be running when the compressor is.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

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Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
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Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover inside the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
heavy frost-
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
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Motor is running but both refrigerator and freezer are not cooling

Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up(totally blocked) because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.


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Need a service/repair manual for a Kenmore refrigerator.

Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.
Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.


Part 4 on this diagram is your timer http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=1069608210&productCategoryId=0160000&brandId=0582&modelName=REFRIGERATOR&diagramPageId=00003&componentDescription=COMPARTMENT%20SEPARATOR%20AND%20CONTROL&documentId=00050440&backToLink=Return%20to%20subcomponent%20list
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I have a Kenmore side-by-side frig which I was told was mfg by Whirpool: Model 106.51264104 Mfg April 2003 It stopped cooling on both sides. A repr tech replaced "RELAY CAPASITOR ASSY." I now get freezer...

Hi,

Okay if not the coils inside the freezer section behind the panel that covers the coils is where the ice is located? I don't know of any other coils inside the freezer? Did you confirm that compressor itself is running? Not just the fan and clarify again the location of the ice.If you have frost on the freezer coil, you probably have a defrost problem. Your freezer should go into a defrost cycle about twice a day. When this happens the compressor and fans shut off and a defrost heater in the freezer coil will turn on heating away the ice. This usually last 10 - 20 minutes. If the defrost coil doesn't defrost it will become a solid block of ice and this will inturn block the air from blowing into your refrigerator compartment. There are several things that can go wrong with the defrost cycle such as the defrost timer, defrost heater, or the defrost termination thermostat.After defrosting the coils with a hair dryer, they have not frozen up again in several days. I did notice that the air diffuser in the refrigerator side does not seem to open by itself. It is not broken physically. If I open the luevers manually, eventually they will close and not reopen.

OR

Relays will burn out for the same reason a light buld burns out. So many hours of life and they go. Also a power surge from a storm can cause them to go.
If the compressor is cold try a relay. If you hear the compressor click on and then click off after 3-5 seconds try a relay.

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