LG LDF6810 Dishwasher Starts filling with water then pumps water

what model number is your dishwasher?

Hello,
Heres what to check

FLOAT IN TUB...check it for sometime stuck under it, or it stem under float is gummed up

FLOAT SWITCH....if float is down and moves freely check for continuty on float switch

WATER VALVE ...check for 120 volts ac into wires on valve solonoid when supposed to be filling,
it's supposed to fill and beginning of cycle

Gene

Larry,
The float is generally for overflow conditions and will interrupt power to the fill valve solenoid.
If you are not filling completely in the time allowed by the timer, it is most likely a flow restriction in the water supply. Barring other obvious restrictions, the fill valve has filter screens on the inlet side of the fill valve, which is generally the cause of your symptoms. Be careful if you attempt to clean the screens, as the fill valves are very sensitive to debris, and can become stuck open if sediment gets past the screen. I usually replace the fill valve to avoid future problems.
Hope this helps.

Hey, consider the float assembly!

We bought this dishwasher and ran it for the last 1 1/2 months and it made a grinding and whistling sound from day one (it's supposed to be nearly silent in its operation). Turns out the drain pump was cutting in while the machine was still filling, thereby emptying the wash tub of any water. Then, when the cycle proceeded to wash, the dumb thing had no water and made a horrible noise. So I had to pitch in at least 2-3 litres of hot water, and then it worked quietly! Had to do this every time there was new water intake.

After working with the repairmen - four visits later, we isolated the float assembly as the problem and they set about replacing the part. Turns out the two parts were markedly different. LG HAD INSTALLED an older model float assembly at the factory and it was the problem. The replacement part was the correct float assembly and things worked perfectly after that - thank goodness. No more babysitting the dishwasher.

Don't let anyone tell you the motor assembly needs replacement. I have seen that cop-out 'fix' all over the web. But use deductive reasoning to find out where the problem is in the cycle, and explore this option first - it's a quicker and cheaper fix than replacing the whole motor assembly.

'Mr. Float' as he is now called works like this:
-expels any residual water in the tub from the last wash
-intakes water for the wash or rinse
-whirs 2-3 times prepping for the cycle
-begins to wash, quietly
-expels at the end of the wash or rinse.

He used to:
-expel residual water
-intake new water for wash or rinse
---drain pump would cut in WHILE still filling
-machine would whir once, realize it didn't have enough water
-perform a brief top-up intake shot
-begin to wash and whistle and GRIND (this is where I would have to add the water)
-expels water from wash or rinse, and start all over again.

It's a good dishwasher and it will work, but the right model parts have to be in place!

On an LG LD-14AW1, three is a float sensor on the left hand side of the dishwasher, behing the water outlet port.
It is the sensor that tells the dishwasher to stop filling just before the wash or rinse cycle begins.
A service call is needed or post back here is you want help replacing it.

The LE error code can mean that the impeller is damaged or there is some debris blocking the the sump area underneath the filter or the wash motor has failed. In that order.
Remove the spray arm and filter (9 phillips screws) - inspect impeller for damage, with flashlight, look everywhere for debris (watch out for broken glass!) Reassemble and test.
If problems continue, schedule as service call focused on the wash pump/motor.
Good Luck!

Many dishwashers will drain at the beginning of any cycle.
If the water does not fill after the pump-out cycle, then the problem is either the fill valve or the float switch. You should be able to hear the float switch click as you raise or lower it. The fill valve usually hums whenever it has power.
If the fill valve has power but doesn't open, (use a voltmeter) replace the fill valve. If there is no power at the float switch, nor at the fill valve after pumping out, then the clock / timer is at fault.

when a dishwasher first starts the pump kicks in for a few seconds before the timer starts the programme, then it should fill up etc, all you can do is confirm again the water supply is actually flowing to the machine, then call out the engineer under guarantee if this was or is not under guarantee, check the water solenoid valve for being open circuit (does it buzz when switched on) no, then faulty, yes then no water there / hope i have helped if so please rate me, thank you, please work safe

It sound that the problem is cause the water level switch. The switch level is usually a diaphragm device with a small clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. I am not familiar with this specific machine, but if you will open the rear panel you will find it easily. Clear tube first from any obstruction, In case it doesn't help, disconnect the wires from the unit (you should disconnect first machine's power cable !!!!!) and measure with a multi-meter on its tugs for continuity and disconnection while you are inhale and blow to its tube. In case it doesn't react, you should replace it. Good luck !