DCS 304 RGA, Igniters ok. 3.9amps, no oven or broiler. No part #

Ours did that and I had to replace the igniters that did not work.

The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. This video will walk you thru the correct procedure for testing an oven igniter. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. This video will walk you thru the correct procedure for testing an oven igniter. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. This video will walk you thru the correct procedure for testing an oven igniter. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. There is a video at http://appliancehelponline.com/gasoventroubleshootvideo.html this will walk you thru the correct procedure for performing this test. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html this will walk you thru the correct procedure for performing this test. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

Could be a board problem or the safety valve. Hard to diagnosis without being there. I'm leaning towards the board if both both burners won't light...hope this helps...

First clean the terminals at the control and check for tight wires at the incoming terminal block. Check the neutral wire for a good conection. If the ignitor reads less than 3 amps it does not have enough resistance to open the gas valve. Turn the gas off. Put a clamp on amp meter on the broil ignitor wire. Turn the broiler on. If less than 3 amps.replace the ignitor.

If your BAKE function works, but the BROIL does not come on, more than likely you have a bad igniter on your broiler. The igniter is a glow bar type that comes in two basic shapes. One is round, and one is square. The round type igniter should draw between 2.7 to 3.2 amps of current to be considered good, while the square type igniter will draw 3.2 to 3.7 amps. The reason it is important to mention this is because, it is not uncommon for an igniter to still glow. and be bad. The igniter is designed to draw the required amount of current in order for the gas valve to open. Once the valve opens, you have ignition. This is a designed safety feature that prevents free-flowing gas from accumulating without ignition. An easy way to check is to remove the broil cover and turn the broiler on to see if you have any activity out of the igniter. If the igniter does not glow at all, a resistance reading can easily determine if the igniter is bad. It should read avery low resistance if good. If the igniter glows, but the gas valve never opens, take a current reading. If you can provide me with your EXACT model number (located somewhere around the oven door/lower drawer opening, or on the back of the range) I can track down a part number for. I hope this information is helpful to you.

Jrzy, even though you can see the bake igniter glowing, that doesn't mean it's good. Igniters actually get weak (unlike a light bulb that simply burns out). It's hooked up in series to a safety valve (the valve that allows main gas into the oven) which actually reads the amps flowing through the igniter. If the igniter is weak and the amps are too low, the valve won't open up. Replace your igniter and you'll be cookin' with gas again. Tip---> before you unscrew your old igniter, put a little liquid dish soap on the threads for lubrication. This'll ensure it comes out with no problems.