Water in New Frigidaire unit is not cold

Hello friend, thank you for your post!

I understand that your Frigidaire refrigerator is not producing enough ice. I would advise to check and make sure that your water filter has a secure connection, if need be uninstall and reinstall the water filter to assure connection. Your filter should be changed every six months, if it is has not been changed recently I would recommend exchanging it.

If you continue to receive low ice production it could be an issue with your water line or water valve, I would seek assistance from a professional for proper diagnose and repair of your appliance. I hope this helps. -Matt

There is a chance the water is coming from the drip tray and or the drain hose to the tray.
when the unit goes into a defrost cycle it is leaking from one of those places check and make sure the hose is in the drip pan correctly and that the pan is also mounted properly and level.

If there is is a lot of water in the pan you may need to check the door seals on you unit and make sure they are sealing properly.

If there is an air leak then the unit could have excessive ice build up and also be defrosting more than usual amounts of water.

If you have a Freezer on the top model Kenmore, with warm temps in the fridge, AND water dripping onto the top shelf of the lower fresh food compartment (FFC), this is usually caused by a clogged defrost drain. Since Kenmore is not an actual manufacturer of anything, they take other brands, i.e. Kitchenaid, GE, Frigidaire, etc., take their names off and put on a shiny Kenmore nametag. This is a common problem with Kitchenaid refrigerators. You can determine if your Kenmore is made by kitchenaid by looking at the model # tag. the first three digits will indicate the manufacturer, Kitchenaids begin with the sequence, 106.*.If this is indeed how your model # begins, keep reading. Since the water cant go down the drain tubing to the pan at the bottom of the unit, it builds up on the freezer floor, eventually blocking the air return vents from the fridge to the freezer, and the vent from the freezer to the fridge. YOu can check this very easily. Look at the ceiling of your FFC, near the back. toward the sides you will see two square holes, about 2" square, stick your finger and feel around the inside of those holes, do you feel any ice/frost, or do you just feel styrofoam, you might even see frost/ice below the level of your ceiling? This drain usually gets clogged with defrost water that does not completely drain, then of course it freezes, eventually plugging up the drian hole located at the level of your freezer floor, behind the back wall. The water keeps accumulating, and freezing, on the freezer floor, eventually filling in and clogging the air vents..no air flow , the fridge wont cool. The easiest way to resolve this, empty out all contents and store someplace cold for 24 hours...a 2nd fridge, outside in a cooler if its cold like here in chicago. After its empty, unplug, open both doors and blow a fan for 24 hours. Prepare for an abundance of water due to melting ice.
After you defrost, you can plug it back in and it will be fine, HOWEVER, I suggest you take the back freezer wall off, you might have to take a floor cover off first, likely 2-4 screws in both the floor and the back wall. When you have the evaporator exposed, you will see a black cal rod defrost heater underneath the evaporator, as well as your drain hole just to the right of center underneath both heater and evaporator. Take a piece of 12-14 gauge solid, not stranded wire, removing the insulation and exposing the entire 6-8" piece of copper wire. wrap the wire around the diameter of the cal rod heater, 3-4 turns should be sufficient, and stick the other end of the wire down that drain hole. This will melt any ice that will build up in the future, everytime your unit goes into defrost cycle, so this wont happen again.

If air vents are clear of frost/ice, next thing to check is the back wall of your freezer, does there appear to be frost/ice/snow on the back wall? If so, your unit is not defrosting. On most Kenmores, this is usually caused by your defrost timer, located in the canopy mounted at the top of the FFC on Top freezer models, or your defrost thermostat, which is clipped onto the evaporator coil inside your freezer. Again, if its a 106 model Kenmore, this thermostat will have a pink and a brown wire coming into/out of it. My suggestion, if it isnt defrosting, change both. tjhe defrost control will connect with a plug, but you will have to hard wire the thermostat, ( cut wires from old, strip wire, and connect using wire nuts and electrical tape.)

Since y ou mentioned the water accumulation, more water recently, my diagnosis would be the former versus the latter, as the lack of actual defrosting coincides with lack of defrost water, however I'll never say never.

If your unit is a side by side model, check for ice on freezer floor...clogged drain. Check again for frost/ice on back wall, not defrosting, check same two parts, (the heaters rarely go bad on Kitchenaids, but never say never) You should also check for air flow into fridge, even if no frost / ice visible on back wall. Open the FFC door, and locate the air vent near the top, back of the fridge, on the left wall. While depressing the door switch, AND WITH THE FREEZER door closed, put your finger/hand near that vent. Do you feel any cold air? If you dont, you could have a bad door damper, not uncommon, or a bad damper control--> the temperature control WITHOUT the off or "0" position.

If any of this seems a bit overwhelming, I suggest you have a reputable repair technician check your fridge.

Oh, and lastly, you WILL NOT have two compressors, one for each compartment, nor will you have two sets of defrost heating elements, one for each half.
ALL cooling for 99% of refrigerators made in last 25 years takes place in the freezer, with the fridge being an empty box, except for an air intake vent, and an air exhaust vent which leads directly back into the freezer. When a refrigerator unit seems to still be cold in the freezer, but not cold enough or not cold at all in the FFC, its ALWAYS going to be caused by lack of air flow. But as you can see, there are a few things that can cause that lack of air flow.

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

The water inlet valve on the back of the unit where the water supply comes in can have a slow leak and will cause ice to buildup and block the fill tube. Disconnect the ice maker line from the valve and watch to see if it has a slow drip. It doesn’t take much to eventually block the fill tube.

It's not dangerous ,you jusi have to defrosted manually by unplugged and let it defrost about once a week.

There is no "screen". Most of these units have dual water valve on rear of unit (two valves on one mounting bracket) located on lower right side of unit. Follow inlet line to where it terminates, you will see water valve. First thing to determine, is the ice maker making ice and not dropping it thru door, or no ice dropping into bucket. Stick finger into I/M and see if you feel ice or if it is empty. If empty (no ice) chance are that I/M is problem, not water valve. Check I/M by pouring water from small glass into I/M,let sit for 2-3 hours and see if it drops ice into bucket, if it does, possible bad water valve, if it doesn't, bad I/M. Those are standard I/M & water valves, available at most applianc parts stores including sears.

If the door seals are still pliable and intact there are two possible causes.

1/ The upper door hinge on the top of freezer unit has two adjusting screws under a plastic cover/cap which allows the upper hinge to be set forward or back altering/adjusting the spacing of the door seal to the freezer body. Moving the hinge outward at the top will cause the door to seal tighter at the bottom and lessen escaping cold air and condensation to form (water droplets). Adjust carefully so as not to create a weak seal (air gap) along other sealing edges of the door frame.

2/ Many United Refrigeration Commercial Freezers are manual defrosting. Moisture from inside the freezer can condense between the inner molded door panel (door shelves) and the exterior metal door. Usually ice buildup will occur in this space, but when defrosting or during high ambient temps the ice will melt and drip out along the bottom door edge/seal. Screws alomg the door frame (hidden by the door seal) hold the seal in place and also the inner molded door panel. The inner panel can be removed to replace the seal or to remove the ice buildup.

Water frozen in the freezer supply line - you need to thaw out the freezer. About six hours, door open, turn freezer OFF. You'll need a cooler with dry ice for your frozen food. 99% certain it'll work after that.

Make sure nothing is inhibiting air flow. I don't think it is advisable to store food in an ice machine however that is not likely the problem unless the food itself is inhibiting air flow. Most ice machine manufacturers recommend against storing any food in an ice machine. If there is a freezer component in you model the check to see if the evaporator coils are frosting up and the frost is blocking airflow causing the ice storage chamber to get warm. High humidity can cause frosting. Leaving a door to the ice maker open too long can cause frosting. A low refrigerant charge can do this although it seems logically like it should not. With a very slightly low charge one end of the evaporator gets super cold and the other end is not cold enough. Frosts starts collecting on the super cold end and accumulates across the evaporator coil to the other end eventually blocking all air flow. With too much humidity from open doors frost accumulates over the entire evaporator evenly but still blocks. You shut the unit down. It thaws out and works OK on restart until frost again builds up. If its not a frosting problem but it just stops making ice then the ice may not be releasing. Check the water supply and change any filters to insure good water flow. A good water supply is required for proper release and harvest of the ice in many ice machines. If the ice doesn't release it takes a shut down and thaw to clear the suspended ice out. Check for these things and write back if you need further assistance and can provide me with more details.