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Best way I can answer this is to purchase the right equipment for the job. A domestic freezer is not designed to work like that, although it may get there in temp it won't hold it. Recovery is slower then the industrial unit you seek. Domestic unit warranties are void if used for commercial settings (i.e. lunch rooms, offices, lab's, etc...) I wish I had a better answer for you but if you need a specific temperature get the correct equipment for the job. Good Luck
As in most refrigerator and freezer units, the manufacturer and technical guides will state up to 24-48 hours to reach appropriate temperature. It also depends on the room temperature and humidity around the unit.
There are two possible causes or types of frosting. One is where the surface of the items in the freezer have frost on them. It may be in one spot or evenly distributed. This is caused by excess room air getting into the freezer because of leaky door gasket which should seal snugly on a dollar bill inserted between the gasket. Frequent or prolonged door opening will also allow room air in. The higher moisture content in the air freezes on the surfaces of the food etc.
The other cause and type of frosting is automatic defrost failure.
Normally there is a Green light showing that power is on
A Yellow one for fast freeze and a Red one for under temperature
The outer casing is well insulated from the inside otherwise the freezer motor would run none stop without cooling the contents so the temperature of the outside casing will reflect the room temperature not the intenal
There is a curing process for the foam used to insulate these. It can give off a pungent odor until it is fully cured. Only experienced it a couple times in the last 20 years. eric
Look on the electrical data plate. It should give you the info you need to know. I went to "victory-refrig.com". It looks as if you have a 3 door unit. The condensing unit is rated at 208-230 volts and is single phase. If your data plate confirms this, you need to use a plug that will accomodate 4 wires (4 prongs). Ground, neutral, and 2 power wires. It also shows that the unit is rated for 12.9 amps so a 20 amp plug is o,k. to use as long as you have the correct voltage. Do not attempt to use 115-120 volts on this as it is not designed for it and will most likely damage the unit. The web site has manuals, diagrams, and such. It looks user frendly, just got to look for what you want.
Hope this helps.
Good Luck
Hi dgh1,
The freezer should stay within 5 degrees of 0 while in operation. While in defrost the freezer may reach as high as 20 to 25 degrees. If any higher temperatures are reached your food will spoil as they are defrosted and refroze everyday. If you find that the temperature is allowing your food to defrost you may want to replace your defrost thermostat. This device is located on top of the evaperator coil inside the back of the freezer. It is made to turn the heater off when a temperature of 55 degrees is reached. One other possible problem could be your defrost timer is taking to long to restart the cooling cycle after defrosting. I hope this will help you and please send any other questions you may have, I am happy to help. and dont forget to rate me.
Mike Anderson
Anderson Appliance
(865)945-3808
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