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Hi, The F11 fault is actually described in the tech sheet as a "Serial
Communication Fault" involving the MCU (the washers computer) and the
DC Drive assembly that runs the motor. If you are not familiar with a
DC drive, it is simply a controller for the motor that varies the
voltage to the motor to change speeds. This is so the washer can crawl
slowly to tumble your clothes as well as spin at the ridiculously high
speeds using the same motor. I would argue that "Jay's" is wrong about
the door latch - there is a different specific code for that
malfunction (I think it flashes F and DL). I wish it was the door lock
- that's cheap, unfortunately, I think you are in for a MCU @ ~$200.
If the unit works when it is on the floor I would suspect three problems.
First make sure the unit is level using a bubble level checking left to right and front to back.
Second make sure the unit is securely on the dryer so when it spins it will not become unbalanced. You should see the washer spin slowly increase in speed and starting to violently shake then slow down again never achieving top speed if this is a problem.
The last possibility is to move the drain hose so it has a loop in it.Use a string, rope or hook it over something to hold the hose up so it will be at the height of the middle of the drum or higher and goes back down into the drain. Washers use a combination of a pump and capillary action to drain. This will also stop water seeping out of the hose when the drum is full allowing it to fill to full capacity.
Remove the front panel (2 screws bottom front) and then put the machine into the spin cycle. Be VERY carefful as the transmission also spins and can really injure you if you get to close. Observe the speed in the spin cycle. Then grab the plastic motor cover and gently pull the motor toward the outside corner. If the spin speed increases then you have a problem with either the 2 springs or 4 rollers inside the floating motor mount. See this link http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspxmodel_id=28967 The Matag part number that would be the ideal fix is 2-5000. To change the rollers you must remove the pulley and motor mount.
The springs are Item 18. You may have to explain to any parts center what rollers you want.
Try this: The filter on your pump is probably clogged with lint and stuff. You have to remove the bottom front panel, 3 torx screws underneath.The panel will drop and come off.Drain off the excess water from the drain pipe you see. The white filter cover is right in front. Get yourself a good plastic bag to collect water. Unscrew the filter cover and twist the filter out. Clean out all the stuff and put it back in carefully. Check your pump too.
When the washer goes into spin cycle it is suppost to start at a slow speed and continue to increase speed (to a maximum of 800 RPM) as the water leaves the clothes. Your washer is going directly to 800 RPM which causes the washer to shake and stop giving you the E4 code. The control board that controls this speed increase must be replaced.
most new washers have cold water only rinse and spray rinse ck cold water coming into machine during wash if no cold comes in suspect cold side of fill vale not opening ..could be wiring issue or a bad valve
Need to know a little more info. Need to know if this noise starts when you first turn it on (during the fill up cycle), once the actual washer starts (wash cycle) or when it goes into spin cycle.
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